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Dimetrodon T 
Thinquisition T 

Thinquisition 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, solo
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Oct 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The upper arete peaking through the trees from bel...

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  • Description 

    The arete is the climb. Start up a crappy pine-needle covered slab for 80 easy feet to a large tree-covered ledge. Here step up onto the obvious arĂȘte. Soon you meet a steep step. Either step right (easy) or take it direct, 5.7 or so, on kinda dirty rock. From here romp up the arete (which, once out of the trees, becomes clean, and very high quality) for a hundred feet or so, to the obvious steep step. This is about 5.8+, thin and exposed. Once past this, cruise up the beautiful arete (5.7, then slowly easing) for miles. Eventually you reach a stance/ledge and bomber cracks for the gear you did not bring. Above here, a couple short steep moves (5.7) gain much easier terrain.

    This climb is a fun solo. It's had few ascents, and the holds, though seemingly solid, have not been tested very often. Climb this on a non-windy day.

    Protection 

    There is no protection within forty or fifty feet of the crux. There is no gear from the crux to a "belay" stance far above. This stance above the crux appears to be more than 200 feet above the tree-covered ledge. Best to suck it up, solo, and figure on downclimbing from below the crux if it looks too hairy above.


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    Comments on Thinquisition Add Comment
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    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 5, 2004

    Crusher is right, this route is a free soloists dream (or nightmare ...). Being a wimp, I have considered toproping it, but even this doesn't seem possible. The climb is over 200 feet long, and even if you did manage to throw up a top rope, a fall would result in a nasty diagonal slide that could still be rather ugly.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 4, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

    This climb can be TR'd or led/followed with reasonable anchors. If you don't want to lead, you can rap into them or climb the moderate E Face to get to each station and TR the pitch below (lower and TR, as this is too long to really rap from).

    P1: 5.5, ~160' to small tree East of ledge, or to 4" diameter branches from a ground-based tree that overhang the formation's ridge. A #2 Camalot fits in slightly strange but fairly solid placement in a hueco in the ridge just below that branch crossing.

    P2: 5.8, ~180' go 65' off of the belay to gear in a crack near the arete. The crack narrows slowly and can can take pro from 3" to 1/2" or smaller at 65' and then nothing more. The crux is indeed well beyond that, and a fall would be a disaster. The crux is either on the steep arete for a short bulge or works out right onto small holds for a less solid but less vertical crux. Don't blow it. 50' after the crux you get onto 5.5 and then 5.3 and eventually come to a ledge with a crack down at your feet that takes a great yellow Alien or two and can also take a stopper or a very flared #3 Camalot to the side. This is an excellent belay at perhaps 180' from the previous, mostly depending on the yellow Alien.

    From there, a short scramble takes you out over the top to the summit, mostly 5.0 and 3rd class.

    I do think 5.8 sounds about right. It's very similar to Que Rasca but less clean. This is not for everyday use.

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