Inner Sanctum  5.9 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  R. Rossiter, R. Wolf, 1988 Season:  Autumn Submitted By:  Tony B on Nov 7, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon) Third Flatiron Queen Anne's Head WC Fields Pinnacle The Ghetto East Ironing Board West Ironing Board The Fin Green Thumb Jaws Details www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&>;&g>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

A pretty good route if you climb it so as to avoid some lichen and loose rock, but not quite as direct that way.

P1 (5.9, PG-13, 150')
Climb up the initial left-facing corner to a lower angle section of rock and progress back into a right-facing open-book. Place some gear and work up and left out of the steep corner. Follow the corner directly (lichen and thin pro, 5.9+) or stay left out of the true corner on the face (big holds, thin pro, 5.8+). Go out around the corner and into a second, very short, right-facing corner. and onto a tiny ledge above it. Pull onto some good holds above (5.8+, PG-13) which are just left of a bulge and then move out and right on easier climbing (5.5, S) to the top. Belay from gear in horizontal cracks.
To retreat, we climbed down the South Chimney (5.5+), but it might be less enervating to climb up the slab of the main rock for 50 meters to the S.W. Chimney. And descend that route, or to finish on a slab route to the main summit and a standard descent.

Location 

Arrive at the Upper South face of the 3rd Flatiron in the vicinity of the S.W. Chimney and S. Chimney. Just downhill from the SW chimney, perhaps 50 meters and just 15 meters right of the pocketed dihedral that is the start of the South Chimney, there is a shallow, blocky, left-facing dihedral starting at the ground and rising up over a lower angle section to a right-facing steep corner. This is the start of Inner Sanctum. Just right of this is the offset overhanging seam and flake start to "Thin Crack."

Protection 

A standard light rack to 3"