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This overlooked route is worth the effort for the NC climber, though it can be exciting without some specific gear beta. Best to use double ropes at the start and then release one when the 1st bolt is reached.
Climb up the chimney placing the #3 camalot. Move up to a stance and locate a great medium stopper. Step back down and move across the chimney onto the face. Dance over to the 1st bolt. Clip 2nd rope and release 1st rope. Move straight up to the 2nd bolt. Climb up (blue tcu here) and then around left onto the delicate face and stance. Get Ready.
Fire in the key sideways #5 WC rock. Make sure it's good! Move up on delicate crimps and layaways to a right foot stance. Look up and fire in that pink tricam (tape the sling for stiffness, its a high placement). Climb up and right (crux) to easier ground and a stance. Medium BD cams here. Climb up and left to the fixed stainless anchor courtesy of Tim Fisher. Inner Peace is now yours!
For extra credit you can give the direct start a go!
FA- Bruce Burgess, Thomas Kelly, Ralph Fickle
Start up the hill from the regular start beneath a left rising ramp/flake. Climb up and left to a bolt with a new modern SS painted hanger. Bust up and left to a crucial small tcu, c3 or hybrid placement. Step slightly left and then bust the move up the ledge. 5.11c
As you turn the corner past the cereal buttress, on the way to the cereal wall, look up and left. You will see a chimney and a clean looking face. Start in the chimney.
2 bolts, pink tricam, #5 wild country rock, medium BD stoppers, #3 camalot, blue tcu, medium cams for the top. Fixed stainless anchor at the top.
Extra Credit: The new "Evo tricam" works wonderfully for the upper crux, so well in fact it could be considered cheating!
By Edward Medina
From: Brighton, CO
Jan 4, 2009
FA: Eddie Begoon, Mike Artz. Per my 2nd edition
Dec 21, 2010
This is a classic in my book. A must do for anyone interested in harder gear routes.
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Great description by Tim. This is a route that should see more traffic than it does, but be sure you have solid 5.11 gear skills. Not a route you should attempt if the plan is to dog your way up, or if you don't have solid nut skills. Bolts have been upgraded in recent years (thanks Tim and Tim), so it shouldn't be passed up by solid 5.11 gear climbers as Bruce states. Note: much of the route goes in the shade pretty early, so do it in the morning on cold days.