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DescriptionThe northern part of the inner gorge is the most remote part of the gorge and usually least crowded. The gorge is narrower here and there are several old mines and buildings. Towards the southern inner gorge the Dilithium Crystal and the Eldorado Roof provide steeper climbing and higher grades. The Mothership is home to excellent rock and some of the best difficult, technical routes. The southern end also has an old power plant and one of the two toilets in the Gorge. Getting ThereThe inner gorge can be approached by either the central or the upper approach depending on where you want to climb. The upper approach is best for the Narrows and areas North, while the Central is best for Dilithium, Eldorado, and Mothership. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Inner Gorge:
Don't Look Up 5.10b Sport, 2 pitches, 170 feet Staying Power Towers
Extreme Caffeine 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Dilithium Crystal
Hey Bubba, Watch This! 5.10c Sport, 2 pitches, 115 feet Weird Corner
Members Only 5.10d Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet Staying Power Towers
Blood Sugar Sex Magik 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Staying Power Towers
Towering Inferno 5.11b Sport, 5 pitches, 480 feet Eldorado Roof
Photon Torpedo 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet The Dilithium Crystal
Living Dead 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Mothership Cliff
Lieutenant Uhura 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Dilithium Crystal
Dr Claw 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Dilithium Crystal
Thieves in the Temple 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Staying Power Towers
Klingon 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet The Dilithium Crystal
Enterprise 5.12a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Dilithium Crystal
Mind Meld 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Dilithium Crystal
Gape Index 5.12b/c Sport, 1 pitch Eldorado Roof
Looney Binge 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Eldorado Roof
Phasers on Stun 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet The Dilithium Crystal
Excelsior 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Mothership Cliff
Fight Club 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Mothership Cliff
Featured Route For Inner Gorge
Looney Binge 5.12c CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Eldorado Roof
Looney Binge is an absolutely classic endurance testpiece on the underside of the Eldorado Roof. It is way less thuggy than it appears, and makes for a wonderful climb.Begin just left of center on a pile of cheater stones at a weakness in the wall. Climb up past an initial undercling crux (12a) to a no-hands rest. Continue up the short dihedral to the second crux below the roof (12b) which gains a crazy flake system. Follow this off to the right for many clips to a difficult section around a...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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