Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Inner Gorge

Select Area...
Crystal Corridor 
Dilithium Crystal, The 
Eldorado Roof 
Fun House 
Land of the Giants 
Local Trivia Tower 
McCracken Wall 
Monkey to Monk Cliff 
Mothership Cliff 
Narrows East 
Narrows West 
P.T. Barnum Wall 
Rob's Rock 
Staying Power Towers 
Supreme Wizard Formation 
Weird Corner 

Inner Gorge Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.52123, -118.57305 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,372
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006

73° | 46°

74° | 47°
Memorial Day

81° | 48°

84° | 49°

84° | 50°

85° | 50°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kodye and James emerge from the the depths unscath...


The northern part of the inner gorge is the most remote part of the gorge and usually least crowded. The gorge is narrower here and there are several old mines and buildings. Towards the southern inner gorge the Dilithium Crystal and the Eldorado Roof provide steeper climbing and higher grades. The Mothership is home to excellent rock and some of the best difficult, technical routes. The southern end also has an old power plant and one of the two toilets in the Gorge.

Getting There 

The inner gorge can be approached by either the central or the upper approach depending on where you want to climb. The upper approach is best for the Narrows and areas North, while the Central is best for Dilithium, Eldorado, and Mothership.

Climbing Season

Weather station 18.7 miles from here

97 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Inner Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Inner Gorge:
Extreme Caffeine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Dilithium Crystal
Don't Look Up   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   Staying Power Towers
Coffee Achiever   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Dilithium Crystal
Members Only   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Staying Power Towers
Blood Sugar Sex Magik   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Staying Power Towers
Escapade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Fun House
Towering Inferno   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 5 pitches, 480'   Eldorado Roof
Photon Torpedo   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Dilithium Crystal
Living Dead   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Mothership Cliff
Lieutenant Uhura   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Dilithium Crystal
Catch and Release   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Mothership Cliff
Klingon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Dilithium Crystal
Thieves in the Temple   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Staying Power Towers
Enterprise   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Dilithium Crystal
Mind Meld   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Dilithium Crystal
Gape Index   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Eldorado Roof
Looney Binge   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Eldorado Roof
Phasers on Stun   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Dilithium Crystal
Excelsior   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Mothership Cliff
Fight Club   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Mothership Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Inner Gorge

Featured Route For Inner Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Disco Inferno/Towering inferno (starts way right)

Disco Inferno 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Eldorado Roof
3 pitchesDifficult vertical start (clipping 3rd bolt)is followed by 2 full pitches of traversing.- P1 5.11a is also P1 of Towering Inferno (5.11b). The traverse is sufficiently protected but you sure won't want to fall. - P2 5.10d is almost as good but a chossy section and a less obvious line make it deserving of less stars in the Marty Lewis guide book. Reaching the anchors might be the heady crux.- P3 5.10c heads up (more details on bolts and distance coming soon. just getting it on here for n...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Inner Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scoping the steeps at the Eldorado Roof  photo: Dy...
Scoping the steeps at the Eldorado Roof photo: Dy...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Friedrich near the El Dorado; autumn, 2007.
Kevin Friedrich near the El Dorado; autumn, 2007.

Comments on Inner Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 3, 2014
Does anyone have any info about the newer routes between Monkey to Monk and Narrows East? Seem like a bunch right on the corner that are still part of the Narrows formation and then around the corner too.
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 4, 2014
Coming left to right from Monkey to Monk
Clearcut Beaver 12a
Fear of the Facial 11a
Full Stainless Skivvies 12b
AstroBoy 12b (in the guide but new 1st pitch is 5.9 dihedral)
Norman 11b short face up side of pillar below astroboy
?? 10a starts up face and goes right around to slab
next 2 are 5.8 and 5.10 but I can't remember which is which.

The first 3 routes are listed on MP on the Monkey to Monk page and Norman is listed on the Narrows East section.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!