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Inner Gorge

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Crystal Corridor 
Dilithium Crystal, The 
DMZ 
Eldorado Roof 
Fun House 
Land of the Giants 
Local Trivia Tower 
McCracken Wall 
Megalithic  
Monkey to Monk Cliff 
Mothership Cliff 
Narrows East 
Narrows West 
P.T. Barnum Wall 
Rob's Rock 
Staying Power Towers 
Supreme Wizard Formation 
Weird Corner 

Inner Gorge  


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Location: 37.52123, -118.57305 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 111,027
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
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Kodye and James emerge from the the depths unscath...

Description 

The northern part of the inner gorge is the most remote part of the gorge and usually least crowded. The gorge is narrower here and there are several old mines and buildings. Towards the southern inner gorge the Dilithium Crystal and the Eldorado Roof provide steeper climbing and higher grades. The Mothership is home to excellent rock and some of the best difficult, technical routes. The southern end also has an old power plant and one of the two toilets in the Gorge.

Getting There 

The inner gorge can be approached by either the central or the upper approach depending on where you want to climb. The upper approach is best for the Narrows and areas North, while the Central is best for Dilithium, Eldorado, and Mothership.

Climbing Season



Weather station 18.7 miles from here

89 Total Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',6],['5.10',26],['5.11',24],['5.12',22],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Inner Gorge:
Coffee Achiever   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Dilithium Crystal
Don't Look Up   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   Staying Power Towers
Extreme Caffeine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Dilithium Crystal
Blood Sugar Sex Magik   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Staying Power Towers
Members Only   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Staying Power Towers
Escapade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Fun House
Towering Inferno   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 5 pitches, 480'   Eldorado Roof
Photon Torpedo   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Dilithium Crystal
Lieutenant Uhura   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Dilithium Crystal
Living Dead   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Mothership Cliff
Godzilla Does the Dizzy Tango   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Eldorado Roof
Klingon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Dilithium Crystal
Thieves in the Temple   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Staying Power Towers
Mind Meld   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Dilithium Crystal
Enterprise   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Dilithium Crystal
Gape Index   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Eldorado Roof
Looney Binge   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Eldorado Roof
Phasers on Stun   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Dilithium Crystal
Excelsior   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Mothership Cliff
Fight Club   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Mothership Cliff
Browse More Classics in Inner Gorge

Featured Route For Inner Gorge
Heading into the business on Excelsior, Owens Rive...

Excelsior 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Mothership Cliff
Ultra Classic. This long, vertical, extremely technical route may not be "in style" anymore, but it is one of the best hard routes in the gorge. It is very sustained, thin climbing on perfect rock. Part of the Tom Herbert "E" series. Big holds at the start quickly shrink into small edges and crimps with the odd pocket. The crux hits you about halfway up and features a series of long thin moves with tiny footholds. The top lets up a little but is no gimme. A must do....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Inner Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Scoping the steeps at the Eldorado Roof  photo: Dy...
Scoping the steeps at the Eldorado Roof photo: Dy...
Kevin Friedrich near the El Dorado; autumn, 2007.
Kevin Friedrich near the El Dorado; autumn, 2007.

Comments on Inner Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 3, 2014
Does anyone have any info about the newer routes between Monkey to Monk and Narrows East? Seem like a bunch right on the corner that are still part of the Narrows formation and then around the corner too.
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 4, 2014
Coming left to right from Monkey to Monk
Clearcut Beaver 12a
Fear of the Facial 11a
Full Stainless Skivvies 12b
AstroBoy 12b (in the guide but new 1st pitch is 5.9 dihedral)
Norman 11b short face up side of pillar below astroboy
?? 10a starts up face and goes right around to slab
next 2 are 5.8 and 5.10 but I can't remember which is which.

The first 3 routes are listed on MP on the Monkey to Monk page and Norman is listed on the Narrows East section.
Enjoy.