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Inner Gorge

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Crystal Corridor 
Dilithium Crystal, The 
DMZ 
Eldorado Roof 
Fun House 
Land of the Giants 
Local Trivia Tower 
McCracken Wall 
Megalithic  
Monkey to Monk Cliff 
Mothership Cliff 
Narrows East 
Narrows West 
P.T. Barnum Wall 
Rob's Rock 
Staying Power Towers 
Supreme Wizard Formation 
Weird Corner 

Inner Gorge 


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Location: 37.52123, -118.57305 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, Adam Winters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
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Scoping the steeps at the Eldorado Roof

photo: Dy...

Description 

The northern part of the inner gorge is the most remote part of the gorge and usually least crowded. The gorge is narrower here and there are several old mines and buildings. Towards the southern inner gorge the Dilithium Crystal and the Eldorado Roof provide steeper climbing and higher grades. The Mothership is home to excellent rock and some of the best difficult, technical routes. The southern end also has an old power plant and one of the two toilets in the Gorge.


Getting There 

The inner gorge can be approached by either the central or the upper approach depending on where you want to climb. The upper approach is best for the Narrows and areas North, while the Central is best for Dilithium, Eldorado, and Mothership.


Climbing Season


89 Total Routes


['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',39],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',6],['5.10',26],['5.11',24],['5.12',22],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Inner Gorge:
Coffee Achiever   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Dilithium Crystal
Extreme Caffeine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Dilithium Crystal
Don't Look Up   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   Staying Power Towers
Blood Sugar Sex Magik   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Staying Power Towers
Members Only   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Staying Power Towers
Escapade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Fun House
Towering Inferno   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 5 pitches, 480'   Eldorado Roof
Photon Torpedo   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Dilithium Crystal
Living Dead   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Mothership Cliff
Lieutenant Uhura   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Dilithium Crystal
Thieves in the Temple   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Staying Power Towers
Klingon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Dilithium Crystal
Godzilla Does the Dizzy Tango   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Eldorado Roof
Enterprise   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Dilithium Crystal
Mind Meld   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Dilithium Crystal
Gape Index   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Eldorado Roof
Looney Binge   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Eldorado Roof
Phasers on Stun   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Dilithium Crystal
Excelsior   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Mothership Cliff
Fight Club   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Mothership Cliff
Browse More Classics in Inner Gorge

Featured Route For Inner Gorge
One of the coolest things I have ever climbed!

Looney Binge 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Eldorado Roof
Looney Binge is an absolutely classic endurance testpiece on the underside of the Eldorado Roof. It is way less thuggy than it appears, and makes for a wonderful climb.Begin just left of center on a pile of cheater stones at a weakness in the wall. Climb up past an initial undercling crux (12a) to a no-hands rest. Continue up the short dihedral to the second crux below the roof (12b) which gains a crazy flake system. Follow this off to the right for many clips to a difficult section around a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Inner Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin Friedrich near the El Dorado; autumn, 2007.
Kevin Friedrich near the El Dorado; autu...
Kodye and James emerge from the the depths unscathed. <br />Photo by Kris.
Kodye and James emerge from the the depths unscath...
Comments on Inner Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 3, 2014

Does anyone have any info about the newer routes between Monkey to Monk and Narrows East? Seem like a bunch right on the corner that are still part of the Narrows formation and then around the corner too.

By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 4, 2014

Coming left to right from Monkey to Monk
Clearcut Beaver 12a
Fear of the Facial 11a
Full Stainless Skivvies 12b
AstroBoy 12b (in the guide but new 1st pitch is 5.9 dihedral)
Norman 11b short face up side of pillar below astroboy
?? 10a starts up face and goes right around to slab
next 2 are 5.8 and 5.10 but I can't remember which is which.

The first 3 routes are listed on MP on the Monkey to Monk page and Norman is listed on the Narrows East section.
Enjoy.