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After passing through the damp tunnel take a left and walk up the trail until you encounter a private road and residence. Take the trail just before the residence that heads off to your right. As the trail descends take the 3rd turnoff to your right. This is a very popular climb and you can usually see others climbing Inner Course or the 5.8 climb called Foreplay, which goes up a water wash immediately to your right once you enter the narrow cleft between the Youbet Jorasses and Outer Outlet formations. Just a bit further up from Foreplay a very large boulder blocks the trail. This is the start of the climb and the belayer should stay below it but the leader must scramble to the top of the boulder where he or she will encounter the first bolt on this impressive looking line. There are 7 bolts to clip and the route proceeds to the left as you proceed higher. A sling can be placed on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag and just above the last bolt there is a nice horn, which you should sling with a double runner. Then you need to traverse up and to the right where you'll see the bolt anchors. You need 2 ropes for the rappel.
There are 7 bolts. You should have a couple of runners (a single and a double), one to sling the 5th bolt to avoid rope drag and the double to sling a horn above the bolts.
Byron leading up the route.
BETA PHOTO: Picture exhibiting the knobby nature of this climb...
Michelle engaged on Inner Course.
Jul 24, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Fun. Create intro to the area's rock. Bonus: The summit view helpful beta for other climbs/features in the area
Feb 27, 2007
This is a killer climb. It's one of my favorites behind the dam of Sylvian. I would highly suggest to try this one out if you are back in the area.
|By Paul Huebner|
From: Portage, WI
Aug 5, 2009
Just led this route again this past July. I found that by skipping the last bolt (#7), you eliminate the rope drag getting over to the existing anchor and when belaying up your second. The original anchor was in direct line with the bolts, but the newer anchor is quite a ways to the right of the climb.
From: Rapid City, SD
Aug 6, 2009
If you use a shoulder length runner instead of a quickdraw it cuts out the rope drag as well.
|By Jim Schedin|
Jul 28, 2010
This is a great one pitch warm up route and along with Better Than Pool & Pie (on the back side of the dam) is a great way to acclimate yourself to the type of rock found in this area. Topping out on it gives you a great view of the area, with views of Lander/Katie's, Riddle, Hrum Hroom, the back side of Rhino, etc. I agree with a previous reviewer....use a long runner up near the top bolt to prevent rope drag. Plenty of room up top for 3-4 people.