Hey All,

So, I want to Train for Climbing outside of climbing. Yes, the best way to Train for Climbing is by Climbing. I've got that part down. Alas, it's usually difficult to procure a partner at 9:00pm on a Tuesday Night. That leaves... Other Training.

I have never done any formal kind of training regimen for anything in the past, but I am very capable of serious exercise. I've maxed out on 33 finger-tip pull-ups and 80 push-ups at one time or another in my life. I can do the work... if I know it will have a benefit.

So, having said that, does anyone know of any resources (hard or soft copy) that have a good outline on Training for Climbing? I found Will Gadd's Ice Climbing Book great for Ice Training, but I am at a loss for Rock Training.

I am under the Impression that General Conditioning via Cardio & Weights is probably the best thing. Any info on the Physiological Benefit (the more climbing specific the better!) would be greatly appreciated. I'm also interested in doing Yoga, but that's a lot to take on all at once. Also, the easier and cheaper, the better. I can't afford a Gym Membership (rock or other) or a Yoga class right now. I just want to get started with something straight forward and easy. I can expand as I go along.

Personal suggestions are welcome as well, but I prefer published material. I find it easier to stick to a schedule when I have something to refer back to. Thanks!!

EDIT: I am mostly interested in Training for Trad, Ice & Alpine Climbing.

Check out the Self Coached Climber.

Though it may be a bit dated (especially regarding nutrition) Eric Horst's Flash Training might help. Also check out Gym Jones. Mark Twight has some pretty intense training ideas.

I think it might be useful to identify what aspect of your climbing you want to improve and/or what type of climbing you want to do.

Hey guys, thanks for the Tips!! As for style of climbing: I am mostly interested in becoming better & faster at Trad/Big Wall, Ice/Mixed and Alpine Climbing. I have not done a real Big Wall yet, so I don't know how much endurance I do or do not have. I know I did a pretty sustained 5-pitch 5.10 last season and was exhausted.

My longer term goals are to become solid at low 5.11 and pushing into 5.11+. I am serious about my goals, but do not want to take myself too seriously. It will happen when it happens, and I will put work into it, but I'm not obsessed. I want to enjoy the journey.

I am not interested in pushing into the high numbers on Sport Climbs in and of itself. I do enjoy Sport Climbing, but prefer to focus on more Adventurous Climbing.

Thanks Again!

Aaron,

To train for bigwall climbing I'd like to suggest:

1. Walk around carrying as much weight as possible. I'm not just talking about a big pack; I mean carrying bowling balls, cinder blocks, medium sized logs. Unwieldy things.

2. Hit your thumbs a few times with a carpenter's hammer.

3. Find the hottest piece of blacktop around and stand on it barefoot for as long as possible. Repeat until blisters form.

4. For mental training: find the scariest movie you have ever seen. Watch each single scene from the movie, between which you must alternate long stretches of watching CSPAN 2. Not the original CSPAN, I'm talking about the mind numbing sup-par policy debates only found on the "other CSPAN."

There, after completing this four step program, you should be able to tackle any big wall out there.

#2 - nice, just bang the crap out of it.

kneepads, man, it's all kneepads.

Take a double length spectra sling and take a leader fall on it. That'll train you not to do that again.

Aaron, you have basically every technical method mentioned except high altitude mountaineering for your goal(s) - which really you should look at different goals for each.

Ice is a long apprenticeship in itself.

Trad goes really well into big wall method, but it's different. Some partners just take a small sporty crag and keep working on lead, anchor rig, haul, jumar, & exchange -- and they just keep practicing method.

Sport & gym climbing is the way to go to get more advanced at trad.

I work out at a gym on shoulders & arms. & take above timberline & harder angle hikes when I can, CO is so accessible for this.

Alpine is light & fast. The best training is RMNP or Jackson - just approach hiking can work you over; look at times from TH to route base & see how you do in relation to being able to get out before T-storms. Sometimes the weather holds, but if you don't get to the base in time, you need to bag it & try again at an earlier time. Also need to recognize the symptoms of AMS - say you make to the base in time, but as you climb you will get weaker & weaker - need to bag it. (I also had climbed with someone that told me they had diagnosed HAPE at 11.5 - I think they flew in from sea-level to do a hike)

Big Wall, Ice, Alpine, & Trad are all long perpetual apprenticeships for me, but I think I'm enjoying Ice & Alpine the most, though I gotta hit the gym & sport crags. Mileage.

My experience with weight training is that it can actually become a detriment to climbing. It is somewhat of a balance. Way better than doing nothing, and definitely helps prevent injury. As a former Cherry Creek linebacker, I grew up lifting and training. Later in life, I spent several years lifting with a former Nautilus trainer who was also my mentor into climbing. Both being single at the time, we would spend 2-1/2 hrs.- 3 days a week in the gym; pulling a workout that made the gym rats puke if they tried to join us.

Eventually, life moved on and the gym routine became irregular. Thats when I noticed real gains in my climbing. Another shot at the gym life was followed by a noticeable drop in ability. I believe that the reason why the best training for climbing is climbing is because that is the only time you really stress those deep, sinewy muscles in the arms and back.

Replace some pumping iron with good old-fashioned pull-ups, preferably on a finger board. When you do lift, focus on stressing the core. Do things on one leg, bent over, on a ball, etc.

Oh yeah, about using sport/gym climbing to train for trad: I was introduced to the sport via sport climbing just as it was beginning. When I did the occasional trad lead, I would use strength of movement to get through the crux instead of properly analyzing and protecting the move. Beware of getting stronger than your ability, if that makes sense.

I've found one of the best workouts for overall fitness is Crossfit. The "workout of the day" is varied so the program remains interesting and it hits a lot of different areas. Check out Crossfit.com.

One other thing I was told and found has worked for me - technical ratings should be consistent when going to a higher altitude, so your technical ability should be comparable when moving into a higher commitment grade. It's the support gear that needs to be managed.

I checked out crossfit.com, nice site. It has a lot of different excersises that seem like they would help with developing all-round strength.Anybody who hasn't given it a look should take the time. I thought "hot chick muscle up" was something completely different though.........

check out my reply to a similar topic here http://www.mountainproject.com/v/training_forum/alpine_rock_>>>>> I think my methods of training fit your goals a bit more than his. looks like we're at about the same technical levels too, feel free to drop me a message.

aaron,
for me the specific training is not as important as them mental knowledge and ability of your endurance.

my regime now that i'm shying from weights
mon- 25 min run, 21 pushups, 21 crunches on physioball, 20 pushups, 20 crunches...all the way down to 1 and 1

tues- 25 min run, 10 pullups, vertical knee raises till fatigues, 9 pullups, VKR's to failure till 1 and 1 for both. Then dips 25/side crunches 15 both down to one

cardio wed plus rock ring 10min

repeat mon/tues on thurs/ fri

i'm a weekend warrior so that is when i can climb.

for ice i just try to do 100 pullups on my tools in 1 hour a few times a week, plus crunches.

A great site is Mountain Athlete

Rob is pouring himself into training climbers and his combination of lifting and sport specific training is worth looking at.

I've been doing a hybrid program based on the Mountain Athlete workouts and my shoulder PT exercises to train for ice, mixed, and alpine climbing with great results.

The biggest thing that Rob pushes is that all the weight room time doesn't add up to anything if you don't get sport specific. For instance, training grip strength requires different exercises and some creativity.

Good luck! There is a gym up in here in Fort Collins that I have been talking with about starting a Mountain Athlete style program, I'll know more about that early next month.

Doug,

Keep us posted on the mountain athlete style program in Fort Collins. I'm definitely interested.

--Mike Hannig

Mike,

You should check out EmerFit as they are the guys I'm been working with up here and might start the Mountain Athlete style workouts.

I got a HUGE benefit out of throwing weights around with them over the last few months (skill and strength), even though their workouts are typically shorter than the Mountain Athlete ones. The atmosphere is awesome and everyone is focused on getting stronger, no bullshit ego.

Definitely worth working with them a couple times a week in combination with sport specific work.