I'm 8-weeks post op from a 95% rotator cuff tear (and sub-acromial decompression) incurred from a fall while skiing this past winter. I'm doing PT 2 days a week working mostly on increasing my overhead range of motion, which has maxed out at about 145 degrees. My other shoulder is only at 150 degrees, which I suspect is the result of bad bone genetics. I'm currently doing medium band and light weight work to strengthen those neglected shoulder muscles.

My question: Does anyone have helpful experience or insight in getting back on the rock after rotator cuff surgery?

Thanks!

I have a suggestion for you: SHUT UP AND CLIMB!! Get over yourself, get your rock shoes on, and lets go climbing sooner than later. Get off the internet, and get on the granite!!

I had rotator cuff surgery about 11 weeks ago. I climbed easy slab routes during weeks nine and ten. Last week I got on some steep stuff up to 5.10. I could do the moves but my shoulder was very sore the next day. It just takes time, lots of it, to heal. My suggestion is to start out easy and work your way up to your former level.

I have been doing physical therapy 5 times a day everyday since surgery. My physical therapy has involved range of motion exercises in which I basically lift my arm as high as possible in all directions. My doctor has me at 100% next week (week 12), but I am sure it will be awhile longer before I can climb hard.

Dave, I had surgery on my shoulder after frequent dislocations about 7 years ago. I was diagnosed officially with shoulder instability. I think your surgical procedure is similar to mine or at least the recovery part is. My advise is to not skimp on the PT. It is the most important part by far. Do what ever your doc or physical therapists tells you. I'm sure they are smart people.

Basically, you will get to a point where you can't damage your should further by working it out. The scar tissue forms relatively quickly compared to mature tissue but forms in very irregular patterns. The fibers lay themselves in a disordered tangle which makes them weaker than mature tissue. In order to strengthen the scar tissue, it takes regular activities and training. This won't happen by sitting on the couch and feeling sorry for yourself. Start PT as soon as you can. The only limitation is pain. Do what pain allows. But not too soon. I guess you are already past that point. Consult the doc. I was back to full strength 6 months (give or take) after surgery. The only difference I can see between my two shoulders now is that one is a different shape than the other. My one shoulder is slightly lacking in military press or bench press strength but you don't really need those muscles for climbing anyway.

In conclusion: Be patient and diligent about PT. Good luck.