I cratered in the dirt bouldering and broke the radial head in my right elbow. It's been almost three months since the accident but recovery has been slow. Luckily it was a small undisplaced fracture so no surgery was needed. P.T. is helping but I was wondering if anyone out there has experienced this (or similar) and what you did for recovery and if you heeled as good as new or close. I've been told that I'll be lucky if my elbow will ever lock or hyperextend.
I think I might be doing more aid climbing in the future.Anyone??
thanks...miles newby

I had a similar break when I was twenty (54 now). I broke the olecranon of the ulna bone (the "point" of your elbow). It was a complete break (not hairline).

I wore a cast for three months that immobilized my wrist and elbow. By the second month I was bouldering with the cast and used that arm to "gaston". The docs said that I'd never get the arm completely straight again, but I was able to get there within a year. I did a lot of climbing, dead-hangs etc. Good attitude and motivation go far.

It use to ache whenever I was physically stressed. Some John Barnes Myofascial Release(MFR) took care of that problem when I was 48. Wish I would have found it earlier.

Good luck

Definitely agree with the attitude and motivation. What's MFR?