I'm still alittle worked up about this, so bare with me.

A climber fell from the anchors on top of the 1st pitch of "Recon" on the wind tower in Eldo late this afternoon.

What exactly happened is yet to be determined.
However here is what I know.
The climber was still tied into the rope and it was under tension from the anchor atop the first pitch. The rope was through the anchor atop the first pitch, but I don't know if it was through the chains or the injured climbers gear. The climber had fallen from atop the first pitch and stopped about 20-30 below the belay ledge. The climber had called "off belay" and was not on belay when they fell. The rope had apparently gotten caught in the first piece of protection on the pitch, which appeared to "arrest" the fall. However the "arrest" only kept the climber from tumbling further down the 4th class slope.

The climber had severe injuries. But was talking.

I was the second person on scene. I'm an EMT and provided care, with much help from other climbers, until the arrival of The rescue team.
The rescue team did an excellent job and were very professional.

I've been intentionally vague about the climbers' indentity and injuries, to protect their privacy.

I wish this climber a speedy recovery and will keep the family and friends in my thoughts.

Please be careful folks.

josh

I had just started up King's X when my partner told me to come down because there had been an accident just around the corner. Josh and a couple of other climbers were stabilizing the victim when I got there. Josh did a great job directing the others and reassuring the fallen climber. Rocky Mountain Rescue also performed admirably, arriving shortly after the accident and getting the victim to the ambulance quickly and smoothly.

Good job, Josh. Glad you were there.

I, too, am still considerably shakin up from this accident. I had just rapped off the Bastille crack when I tought I heard rock fall in the distance. Out of the corner of my eye I saw someone falling on the Wind Towner. I may post more details later, but right now, may not be appropiate. I was the fourth to assist, though there were several others around, but only three people were directly assisting. Josh did an excellent job coordinating our efforts to stabilize the climber. Thank you Josh. Dave took on an exhausting effort holding the climber on a steep ramp for quite some time. A third stablized his leg.

I am still very confused as to what may have happened. I keep running scenarios in my head but can't seem to figure it out. What I know: the climber fell a long way. Possibly from the large ledge atop the first pitch. The rope was taught from him, up to the ledge more than 100 above, through some gear, back down and through a few more pieces, down to the base of the climb. His partner was not attached in any way at this point and was walking around with a hand injury. He said his partner fell onto it his hand. I don't know what the rope was taught to.

I do wish him the best in his recovery.

http://www.rockymountainnews.com/news/2008/may/04/boulder-cl>>>>>

By Jerd Smith, Rocky Mountain News
Originally published 08:40 p.m., May 4, 2008
Updated 08:40 p.m., May 4, 2008

A 45-year-old man fell 100 feet Sunday afternoon in Eldorado Canyon State Park.

The climber, identified as Lon Abbott of Boulder, was alert when emergency response officials air lifted him to Denver Health Medical Center.

According to police, Abbott was climbing with a partner, Avery McGill when the accident occurred.

McGill, 25 of Boulder, said Abbott was climbing about 75 feet above a ledge where McGill was belaying him when Abbott fell off the Recon Wall. The ledge was about 25 feet off the ground.

McGill said first thought rock was coming down and took shelter underneath an outcropping. When he realized Abbott was falling, he tried to grab the rope but couldn't hold on to it.

Abbott appeared to be suffering from head and shoulder injuries and a suspected leg fracture, officials said.

I think you can safely omit the word "suspected."

I hope it's not too soon to start the safety discussion, but since it might prevent another accident I'll take a chance here...

Very experienced climbers will often keep the leader on belay when he reaches the top of a pitch, even if he says "off belay." Just give him a 5 or 10 feet of slack and tie a knot in the rope on the brake side of your belay device until if becomes evident that the leader is tied off to the anchor and is desperately trying to pull up the slack so he can put you on belay. Often there is background noise, there are other parties nearby calling out signals, or the leader might say "off belay" when he isn't actually secured to the anchor.

Does anyone know his current condition?

Hi...I guess I would like thank the folks that helped me help the climber...greg in particular and props to Josh. He was EXACTLY what you want from an EMT at the scene...he was calm and professional and right, all of which I'm sure greatly decreased the possibility of additional injury to the fallen climber.

I saw him fall as I was walking across the bridge back to my car and I keep playing it over and over. His fall was clearly arrested to some degree as he decelerated about 5 feet or so from the ground and was falling in that rope stretch sort of way. The only scenarios that I can rationally conceive of to allow this to happen all involve a catastrophic breakdown in communication or normal safety procedures. He really is quite lucky to be alive...if he had slammed into the ground at the speed he was falling when I first saw him, I can't imagine he would have survived.


I hope both climbers recover 100%.

To add a couple of things to the scenario.
A couple of friends who were there, but did not get directly involved, did some looking at the set up of the rope. They also spoke to Lon's partner.
They said it appeared as if the rope had gotten knotted up and then caught in the first piece of protection on the pitch...this is most likely what "caught" the fall. A twisted rope miracle that probably saved his life.
His partner stated that they had been leading, then rappelling all day. Having not talked about changing what they had been doing all day, his partner naturally assumed that they would continue. Which leads to speculation that, after leading the pitch the leader had decided to lower instead of rappelling, but forgot to communicate this with his partner.
Obviously this is theory, but whatever happened it's a good time to remind us all that we should always communicate with our partners.

josh

Be smart, communicate, be vigilant and never take anything for granted.
My best wishes for the speedy recovery of all our injured brethren.

i often can't hear my partner when he yells "off belay." he will give three really hard yanks on the rope when he is off belay and i don't take him off until i feel those yanks. this way i don't have to wonder if i am hearing him or someone else or wonder when i hear nothing.

David, thanks for sharing the experience.

Good luck to a quick and healthy recovery for both of you.

I don't think David was involved in the accident, he was helping out and possibly first on the scene?

I hope Lon Abbott and his partner both make a full and quick recovery from their injuries.

I just want to wish both Lon and Avery a speedy recovery of both there physical as well as the mental injuries.

I was the 3rd to get to Lon right behind Josh and the one supporting his left leg. I just want to say what an outstanding job Josh, David and Greg did. As well as the SAR guys. With out them thing could have been much worse.

Josh and Dave Purf, the injured climber is very lucky the two of you were at the scene to help. I'm proud to call you friends. When the chips are down, you both are people who will step up and take care of business.

This sort of thing always reminds me of how precious life is and how quickly it can be taken. I'm fortunate to be surrounded by wonderful friends and family and want you all to know how much I appreciate having you in my life.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery to both climbers and everyone involved.

I hope Lon recovers quickly. He is an amazingly friendly guy, and a very experienced climber. He has authored a few guides I think in AZ or NM.I was lucky enough to take a Geology course from him, and he was the professor who really made me question not being a Geology major. He is enthusiastic and brilliant. I learned more from his one class than many other classes combined, and the information he instilled in me has stuck with me (a rare occurrence). I was shocked when I read it was he who was injured, and I'm still in a bit of disbelief. Lots of Good JUJU from here. Thanks to all involved in the rescue. Sounds like it was done professionally and quickly. Good Job and Thank You.

On a slightly different note, how would one go about sending a get well card or the like to him. Can hospitals say he is there or does that violate privacy laws. What hospital is he at? I have little experience with this. Thanks for any info.

I wish him a speedy recovery. If anyone can, keep us updated on his condition. The man is an amazing educator, and has and will influence many ignorant students (like me) as to what their passions really are. Honestly, he was probably the best prof I have had at CU. We are thinking of you Lon.
Nikolai Daiss-Fechner

Further to Jed's point, I have 2 rules.

Rule #1:
I ALWAYS make eye contact, if it's possible, with my belayer before I lower. I can't believe how many times I've looked down after the anchor clip and found my belayer doing something besides belaying. It's not that they've taken me off belay or have taken their brake hand off the rope, it's that the process of belaying ME is no longer the sole focus of their attention.

Rule #2:
I ALWAYS hold my own weight on the down strand of rope to the belayer when starting to lower. Once it's clear the I'm on belay I slowly relax my death-grip on the rope and ease my weight onto the belayer.

I have two good friends who mis-communicated, brain-farted or whatever and took the ride to the ground. One lost his foot and is now a gimp like me. The another broke his pelvis and spent 10 months in rehab. Both of these, BTW, were the fault of the climber. Regardless, had either of them followed Rule #1 or Rule #2 their accidents wouldn't have happened.

Climb safe,
Mal

I also had Lon as a professor and was shocked to see he was the victim. I hope him a speedy recovery and send thanks to the rescuers involved. Lon is a great guy, I'm glad they got him out of Eldo.

Variation on a theme here- I'm usually dangling from a daisy and a sling 2' below the anchor, then have my partner take me VERY TIGHT before I lower, so that I am drawn up off my own gear and onto the rope before lowering... I KNOW they have me locked off and ready and am hanging on them ready to lower prior to unclipping.

I also give 3 "drops" in the rope before shouting 'off belay.'

There is no perfect way, but the message from Mal, Thom, Jed and others is to be TRULY certain that they have you before you do anything more.

I was mistakenly taken off belay once last season at Seneca while leading. My partner couldn't see me and heard what he thought was me yelling "off belay." Thankfully, his confirmation call brought it to my attention and I yelled for him to put me back on.

For this reason, in addition to visual confirmation where possible and 3 tugs on the rope when you're out of verbal/visual communication, we use our last names at the end of calls to reduce the possibility of a mix up.

I also am a "death grip at the start of a lower" guy, in addition to the above mentioned points about being sure the person has you on tension.

Big recognition and thanks to everyone who helped in the rescue, and positive thoughts for a full recovery to both climbers.

Be it rapping or lowering - I'm always still loosely tied into the anchor as the rope is weighted as Tony mentioned...a "death" grip on the rope doesn't do it for me. If I can't see my belayer and there is some doubt I'd rather rap myself down. Visual contact is key when lowering. I also always confirm twice vocally - once before the rope is weighted and once after - though many partners give you the look like "duh you are weighting the rope!" I'd rather be a pain in the ass then on the ground.

Typically my partner and I establish lowering or rapping before we leave the ground...and even then if I'm lowering I just ask for slack instead of going off belay. There is really no reason to be off belay at any point if you are lowering.

Hope everyone recovers well from the accident.