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Injured Climber Rescued from Sandias: Gear Left Behind on Second Coming 9/2/2012
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By suprasoup
From Rio Rancho, NM
Sep 4, 2012
False Summit of the Thumb

www.koat.com/news/new-mexico/albuquerque/Injured-climber-res>>>

Dr. Durkin and I were starting the 2nd pitch when the accident occurred. I slung the big tree at the top of the 1st pitch with cord and a locking biner and we rapped to the base and hiked to the injured climber and his partner who were climbing on the Chimney. Hopefully in the next day or so I'll be back to finish the climb and retrieve my gear. if someone has already retrieved it an offer of beers for its return.

Stay safe out there,

Supra
Albuquerque Mountain Rescue Council
Cibola SAR
NMSAR Support Team


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Sep 4, 2012
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.

The climber was very fortunate to have the two of you climbing nearby, Supra. I hope your gear is still there or promptly returned to you. Great job out there.


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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From Albuquerque, NM
Sep 4, 2012

Again? What is going on out there?

Hope the fallen climber is OK.

Jeremy


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By djkyote
Sep 4, 2012

head injury... was the victim wearing a helmet?

Thanks for your service Supra! If I ever get my trad on again, I'll feel better knowing you are around.


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By suprasoup
From Rio Rancho, NM
Sep 4, 2012
False Summit of the Thumb

www.krqe.com/dpp/news/local/central/crews-launch-rescue-for->>>

This might explain some of what happened better. He pulled a couple of pieces and decked. He was wearing a helmet but struck a rock at the base of his skull.

Send positive energy, thoughts and prayers his way,

Supra


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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From Albuquerque, NM
Sep 5, 2012

Jesus...be careful out there guys.

Jeremy


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By JoshuaJones
From Albuquerque
Sep 6, 2012
Rapping from the top.

Any news on the fallen climber's recovery state? What kind of placements pulled? Good job with the help you guys gave to him out there.


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By Paul Davidson
Sep 7, 2012

Good job supra...
Lucky climber to have an ER doc so close.


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By suprasoup
From Rio Rancho, NM
Sep 8, 2012
False Summit of the Thumb

www.koat.com/news/new-mexico/albuquerque/Climbing-Equipment/>>>

I heard from my peeps at the hospital that he's recovering and doing well considering the extent of his injuries.

I spoke with the climbers partner and Durkin spoke with the climber. It appears that he may have pulled an alien (yellow or green) and possibly a nut.

Supra


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By Shelton Hatfield
From Austin, Texas
Sep 8, 2012
Photo by Damien

The climber is back home now and doing amazing considering what happened.


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By JoshuaJones
From Albuquerque
Sep 8, 2012
Rapping from the top.

That is great to hear. I will be thinking of him and hope for a quick recovery.


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By gnorman
Oct 4, 2012

First, thanks to you people who do mountain rescue. In a sense, you make everyone's recreation possible.
There's one issue that may or may not matter to you regarding this rescue. Three hang glider pilots who agreed to launch and leave that day instead launched and stayed soaring on the mountain, delaying the final takeoff of the BlackHawk for over half an hour.
The local hang gliding club is renewing their Forest Service permit this year. If you have any opinion on this, you can post comments to comments-southwestern-cibola@fs.fed.us through today (Oct 4).
If you need any information or details post here and I'll give all I've got. Thanks again.


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By Eric Whitbeck
Oct 4, 2012

Are you saying that they were informed before taking off that there was an injured individual in need of rescue and they chose to ignore that in order to soar around in the sky for a bit of fun?


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By gnorman
Oct 4, 2012

The three pilots involved are pleading "nuanced" interpretations of what they were told. I distinctly heard the Incident Commander say, "You have until 6:10 to get out of here." The story the pilots are selling is that getting 1000-1500 feet over is "out of there." They did in fact have permission to launch while the Hawk was waiting for cable, to be clear. It was staying on the mountain after 6:10 that was the problem.


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Oct 4, 2012
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

the article says "faulty equipment"... does this mean the pro itself failed or the pro placement failed?


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By brandonh
Oct 15, 2012

Injured climber checking in!

Recovery is going great and I am very fortunate to be in such good shape. Thanks again to all the SAR team and those who have helped!


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By suprasoup
From Rio Rancho, NM
Oct 16, 2012
False Summit of the Thumb

brandonh wrote:
Injured climber checking in! Recovery is going great and I am very fortunate to be in such good shape. Thanks again to all the SAR team and those who have helped!


Glad you are doing well Brandon. Let me know if there is anything we can do for ya.

If you're feeling up to it I'd like to hear what happened from your perspective. It always helps the community (Climbing and SAR) to hear first hand accounts.


Supra


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By brandonh
Oct 16, 2012

Ok, Story time.

The day prior to the accident my climbing partner and I were on Little Yellow Jacket. We spotted the chimney climb on a spire behind us and decided it would be fun to do the next day. Guide book did not say much about the route but we heard from some locals it went around 5.7 and had solid bolts at the top. A bit of route finding and lose rock but nothing to really dissuade us. We scouted what looked like a good start and I took the first lead. I placed a small nut about 7 feet up and a small alien around 15. A foot or two above my last piece my foot slipped and I remember the Alien pulling. The next thing I remember was being up against a rock 15 or so feet down the hill from the start of the pitch bleeding from the head and ear. Luckily I had my helmet on and a first aid kit in my bag so my partner was able to help me quickly slow the blood flow.

From what I understand, the rock around the Alien fractured causing the placement to fail and the nut pulled out by the force coming up from my belay.
Lessons to take on this are, if placing a nut, or any piece that relies on directional force, place a second piece to counteract any force coming from below the piece.
As for the cam, not much to say there. Better testing of the rock surrounding the placement would of helped.


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