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Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life
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Initial Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: George Bracksieck & Doug Hill, 1975?
Page Views: 1,212
Submitted By: Scott Conner on Feb 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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First pitch of Initial Route.

CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This enjoyable 2 pitch route is on the southwest face of Hitler's Sex Life. It doesn't appear to get climbed much. The route begins beneath the low point/left end of the horizontal seam. Pitch 1 is about 50% traverse.P1. Work up into the seam and follow it up and to the right until it ends at an A-shaped slot with a shallow vertical crack. Follow this crack up (crux) about six feet to a sloping ledge. Be sure to place a piece here to protect your follower from a BIG swing, and continue farther right about 15 ft. to a nice belay. (~150ft) P2. Go straight up shallow seams on difficult-to-protect 5.5ish terrain and continue up into an accute corner. Pull out of the top of the corner/roof and continue up a vegetated crack, through a blocky section and to the top. (~90ft)

Descent: Walk off.


Small to medium cams and a set of stoppers; long slings will be helpful to cut down on rope drag.

Photos of Initial Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Turning the arete - second pitch crux.
Turning the arete - second pitch crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Good look at the entire route.  Second pitch goes ...
Good look at the entire route. Second pitch goes ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Second following up the crux.
Second following up the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux - first pitch.
Crux - first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up the second pitch.  Nice climb!
Finishing up the second pitch. Nice climb!

Comments on Initial Route Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 13, 2003

This route is more like a one star in my mind. It has lots of lose gravely sections. The traverse pitch is probably the only worthwhile pitch on the route. It also feels a bit harder than 5.7.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2005

I managed to lead this as one 60m pitch but it barely reached. I'm not sure I would recommend doing it as one pitch. The rock quality definitely deteriorates toward the top.
By George Bracksieck
Jul 13, 2012

For what it's worth, which isn't much, I and Doug Hill climbed this in 1975... except that we continued up to the top of the upper, prominent, left-facing, left-leaning dihedral and then right, up the crack in a groove on the summit "ridge."
By Addison
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 27, 2012

Really fun undercling traverse, BUT awful pro at roof crux on first pitch. Traverse alone deserves two stars... (#6 BD nut will fit into the crux like a glove).

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