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Initial impressions of Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center (RPTC) hangboard
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Apr 24, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
as a follow up to my original post, here is general update.

i have gone through 3 cycles on the HB now. definitely stronger, particularly on pockets. despite battling weather, family trips, work, and more work i have managed to bump up my grades a bit.

here is one of the most impressive things about this hangboard (at least to me anyway). i haven't had to bail on a single set, or even a single REP of any of my workouts due to flappers or other discomfort. not a single rep. for me, that is mind blowing - i used to have a lot of trouble with this. there have definitely been several times when it wasn't exactly comfortable (that nasty little crimp, sweet moses malone that thing is a bastard), but i was still able to chug through it.

i am also really psyched about the pinches. i have actually kept improving on these, and i can definitely tell when i am bouldering in the gym.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,043 points
May 7, 2014
g man
I just got my Rock Prodigy Training Center. My last cycle ended with a slight collateral ligament strain and this board is perfect for rehabbing. I am able to remove a significant portion of my body weight with the pulley setup.

What really stands out to me are the ergonomic holds and the fantastic hold textures. Both are really top notch. I mounted it with French cleats described up thread, and that seems to be working great. It took a while to remember to move them for each grip. I guess I catch on slowly.

A couple side notes, I have access to a table saw which makes the angled rips MUCH easier! I also chose to do a 14" floating cleat and plywood mount. I thought I remembered Mono saying there was a slight wobble on the pinch grips with the 12.5" floating cleat.

I can't wait to get into a new cycle with this tool.


training grotto
training grotto


Nice 45 rip. This really helps make the adjustmen...
Nice 45 rip. This really helps make the adjustment smooth.


Closer
Closer


Bad light, but shows the french cleat.
Bad light, but shows the french cleat.
Mike Stearns
Joined May 30, 2007
1,606 points
May 7, 2014
All the comments I have are relatively minor, and I would highly recommend this board.

I don't know about others, but during my cycle I bring my arms down from the board to get some blood into my shoulders between reps. This takes practice to do in 3 seconds, but is quite manageable - the one sticking point is on the deeper pockets, the openings are a bit narrow and I find my first knuckle "sticking" in the hold a bit which can slow me down.

Additionally, I find that the wide pinch pinches the skin on my thumbs a bit uncomfortably, but as these are the best pinches I have ever come across for hang-boarding am quite willing to tolerate. I have not yet incorporated the smaller pinches so I am not sure if they will provide a similar experience.

I'm a little uncertain on the best usage of the "tapered" crimps - do people use tick marks to locate their hands on this hold, or just bunch up at one end or the other?

Finally, I've taken to calling the smallest hold the "hateful crimp" and echo the assessments that it might be evil incarnate. I had to start with a baseline of -30, which is like 20% of my bodyweight. That being said it makes getting stronger on it that much sweeter.
Ben Circello
Joined Feb 12, 2009
120 points
May 7, 2014
g man
Ben, I have the same issue with thumb skin discomfort while pinching. I found that only using the first pad of my thumb alleviates the rolling, but makes the pinch even harder (already a weak grip for me).

I believe the bumps on the tapered crimps are meant to line up with the tip of each finger, allowing for 1 finger width increments of very repeatable adjustment. Does that make sense? I am having a hard time with the words this morning.
Mike Stearns
Joined May 30, 2007
1,606 points
May 7, 2014
Good call on the single pad thumb usage Mike, it hadn't even occurred to me. I'll have to try it out.

I must not have noticed bumps within the tapered ledge, to be honest I only played around with it when I first got the board and it's not in my rotations yet. I'll have to check for those when I get home.

As an aside, your set-up is super sweet. Training outside makes me super jealous.

Cheers.
Ben Circello
Joined Feb 12, 2009
120 points
Aug 7, 2014
I have just started using the RPTC and overall it is very well thought out. I am however confused about the variable depth rail. I get why having various sizes is great, but basically your fingers are all on different size holds. Your index is on a biggish hold while your pinky is on a noticeably smaller one. Sure you might find such a hold outside, but you might find the opposite too. This seems counter productive. Does anyone have comments? Mark A., I know you have put tons of thought into this board, and I do like it otherwise, so thanks for any feedback! Dr. Chris Lee
Joined Sep 21, 2009
13 points
Administrator
Aug 7, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
the variable depth edge works pretty well for the 4 finger open crimp. it allows your index to be pretty much open, middle and ring to be half crimped, and pinky to be pretty much open. it took me a little bit to get used to, but after using it a bunch i really like it. when i used to do the 4foc on a constant depth edge i was always trying to get as much of my pinky as possible on the hold, so i would over-rotate my wrists. this kind of bugged my wrists a bit.

with the little bumps inside, it is pretty easy to consistently hit the same part of the edge. takes a little practice, but once you get the hang of it you can do it without thinking too much.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,043 points
Sep 6, 2014
A couple of random questions:

1. How are people attaching the weight? Currently, I have a loop of 5mm with an overhand at either end which I run through the weights and clip to a biner. There has to be a better way.

2. Rock Prodigy specific - when using the middle pinch, the top of my hand wraps up and over the top of the board like a pseudo-sloper instead of a true pinch. The other alternative is only to pinch with the first two pads of my fingers and the first pad of my thumb...which will require taking off some serious weight! How are people using this hold? With my hand size, this isn't an issue with the wide pinch, as that takes my whole hand.

3. When do people start moving in or out on the variable width edges versus changing resistance?
aliebling
Joined Jun 1, 2010
217 points
Sep 7, 2014
aliebling wrote:
A couple of random questions: 1. How are people attaching the weight? Currently, I have a loop of 5mm with an overhand at either end which I run through the weights and clip to a biner. There has to be a better way.


I tie a figure 8 on a bight into the weight end of the cord and clip a biner to that. Then I girth hitch each weight plate with a sling. This makes it easy to adjust weights between sets by just clipping/unclipping them onto the figure 8.
Dan Austin
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Oct 6, 2010
5 points
Sep 11, 2014
aliebling wrote:
A couple of random questions: 1. How are people attaching the weight? Currently, I have a loop of 5mm with an overhand at either end which I run through the weights and clip to a biner. There has to be a better way. 2. Rock Prodigy specific - when using the middle pinch, the top of my hand wraps up and over the top of the board like a pseudo-sloper instead of a true pinch. The other alternative is only to pinch with the first two pads of my fingers and the first pad of my thumb...which will require taking off some serious weight! How are people using this hold? With my hand size, this isn't an issue with the wide pinch, as that takes my whole hand. 3. When do people start moving in or out on the variable width edges versus changing resistance?



2. The only way I could figure out how to use that pinch was to take off a good bit of my body weight. Now that I have a good number of sessions under my belt, I am able to use less negative weight.
BarbM
Joined Sep 11, 2014
0 points
Sep 27, 2014
YouTube.com/paodey93  PlanchePRO
Did anyone ever have an issue with symmetry? I ordered one online, and it was pretty obvious that they were asymmetrical. The right half was longer and thicker than the left half when I ran my hand sideways. I ordered another one, but again, they sent me an asymmetrical pair. It was a little less noticeable, but right half was still slightly thicker and longer than the left half as well. The slopers didn't feel even.

Close Up Bottom View
Close Up Bottom View


Regular Bottom View
Regular Bottom View


Front View
Front View
PlanchePRO
From Houston, Texas
Joined Sep 27, 2014
45 points
Sep 27, 2014
yep
I noticed the same thing when I mounted mine a month or so ago. Right was thicker than the left and not as square overall. I ended up saying f-it and just mounted them. Haven't noticed any negatives.
This does seem to be a downside of having independent pieces/molds.
I'd assume Trango must have noticed this in their QA process.
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 14, 2007
57 points
Sep 27, 2014
YouTube.com/paodey93  PlanchePRO
Gold Plated Rocket Pony wrote:
I noticed the same thing when I mounted mine a month or so ago. Right was thicker than the left and not as square overall. I ended up saying f-it and just mounted them. Haven't noticed any negatives. This does seem to be a downside of having independent pieces/molds. I'd assume Trango must have noticed this in their QA process.


Where did you purchase yours from? I ordered mine from Moosejaw because there was a huge discount, but I'm thinking of just ordering straight from Trango.
PlanchePRO
From Houston, Texas
Joined Sep 27, 2014
45 points
Sep 28, 2014
yep
Mine came direct from trango Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 14, 2007
57 points
Sep 29, 2014
YouTube.com/paodey93  PlanchePRO
Gold Plated Rocket Pony wrote:
Mine came direct from trango


I see. By the way, what does QA stand for?
PlanchePRO
From Houston, Texas
Joined Sep 27, 2014
45 points
Sep 29, 2014
QA = Quality Assurance. Their testing process. JWong
From Los Angeles, California
Joined Apr 24, 2008
9 points
Sep 29, 2014
I ordered mine directly from Trango and got it last week. I didn't notice anything as far as asymmetry but it is purple not blue. I don't really care about the color but was certainly surprised by the deep purple pieces of plastic that I got in the mail.

On another note, I (obviously) haven't had the chance to use it much, but based on my first session with it, I really like it. It feels so much better than the Metolious board I have dabbled with before. Also, the pinches, my climbing weakness, are very comfortable to use. Overall, I am certainly impressed with the board. I was conflicted between a Beastmaker 2000 and this but I'm convinced I made the right choice.
Tristan Baldwin
From Amherst, NH
Joined Jul 24, 2013
134 points
Sep 29, 2014
Has anyone used this with a blank slate? Can a pulley be attached to the blank slate? Pontoon
From Minneapolis, Minnesota
Joined Jan 18, 2014
74 points
Sep 29, 2014
things are looking up
You sure can! You have to be a little careful of how you line up the screw holes, and you probably don't want to add too much weight when using the pulleys (or adding weight on), but it works pretty well. If you do want to add weight, definitely make sure the door frame is steady. I take this on family vacations when I can't climb :)

Blank Slate RPTC
Blank Slate RPTC

This photo was taken in a hotel on a work trip.
Adam Sanders
From Erie, CO
Joined Nov 22, 2008
149 points
Sep 29, 2014
Sweet thanks. I don't have to worry too much about weight I'd imagine. I'm only starting at 137.

Also that looks like the blank slate regular size, not the slim version. Is that correct? Do you ever have issues getting it to fit on a door frame?

And finally did you go with vertical or overhang?
Pontoon
From Minneapolis, Minnesota
Joined Jan 18, 2014
74 points
Sep 30, 2014
things are looking up
This is the slim version, and the board overlaps the edge a little (not a big deal). The Blank Slate actually flexes quite a bit, so I set it up with the board a touch "slabby" so that when I weight it, the flex takes it to vertical. Most of my HB workouts are done at home on a vertical board in my garage, so I just try to replicate that as closely as possible. Adam Sanders
From Erie, CO
Joined Nov 22, 2008
149 points
Administrator
Sep 30, 2014
Hogwarts: Imperio Direct (5.13a)
Like Adam, I set up my Blank Slate so that it sat a little less than vertical so that when I hang on it, it gets pulled into a perfectly vertical configuration. It actually works pretty well!

BTW- if you're looking to buy a blank slate to put your hangboard on I'm selling mine here. It's a vertically-oriented slim version: mountainproject.com/v/fs-blank...
Alvaro Arnal
From Aspen, CO
Joined May 2, 2010
1,519 points
Administrator
Sep 30, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
my HB pieces are slightly non symmetric (slight bulge in one of them), however the depths of the holds are symmetric. maybe check and see if this is the case with yours also, although yours look a lot more non symetric in terms of thickness than mine are. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,043 points
Oct 3, 2014
yep
FWIW Trango reached out to me and replaced my hangboard. Just mounted it last night. Good customer service in world where most companies don't seem to care anymore. Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 14, 2007
57 points
Oct 3, 2014
YouTube.com/paodey93  PlanchePRO
Gold Plated Rocket Pony wrote:
FWIW Trango reached out to me and replaced my hangboard. Just mounted it last night. Good customer service in world where most companies don't seem to care anymore.


Wow, how did you get your replacement so quick? Trango reached out to me as well, and mine is being taken care of.
PlanchePRO
From Houston, Texas
Joined Sep 27, 2014
45 points


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