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Initial impressions of Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center (RPTC) hangboard
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By slim
Administrator
Apr 24, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
as a follow up to my original post, here is general update.

i have gone through 3 cycles on the HB now. definitely stronger, particularly on pockets. despite battling weather, family trips, work, and more work i have managed to bump up my grades a bit.

here is one of the most impressive things about this hangboard (at least to me anyway). i haven't had to bail on a single set, or even a single REP of any of my workouts due to flappers or other discomfort. not a single rep. for me, that is mind blowing - i used to have a lot of trouble with this. there have definitely been several times when it wasn't exactly comfortable (that nasty little crimp, sweet moses malone that thing is a bastard), but i was still able to chug through it.

i am also really psyched about the pinches. i have actually kept improving on these, and i can definitely tell when i am bouldering in the gym.

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By Mike Stearns
May 7, 2014
top of grand
I just got my Rock Prodigy Training Center. My last cycle ended with a slight collateral ligament strain and this board is perfect for rehabbing. I am able to remove a significant portion of my body weight with the pulley setup.

What really stands out to me are the ergonomic holds and the fantastic hold textures. Both are really top notch. I mounted it with French cleats described up thread, and that seems to be working great. It took a while to remember to move them for each grip. I guess I catch on slowly.

A couple side notes, I have access to a table saw which makes the angled rips MUCH easier! I also chose to do a 14" floating cleat and plywood mount. I thought I remembered Mono saying there was a slight wobble on the pinch grips with the 12.5" floating cleat.

I can't wait to get into a new cycle with this tool.


training grotto
training grotto


Nice 45 rip. This really helps make the adjustment smooth.
Nice 45 rip. This really helps make the adjustment smooth.


Closer
Closer


Bad light, but shows the french cleat.
Bad light, but shows the french cleat.

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By Ben Circello
May 7, 2014
All the comments I have are relatively minor, and I would highly recommend this board.

I don't know about others, but during my cycle I bring my arms down from the board to get some blood into my shoulders between reps. This takes practice to do in 3 seconds, but is quite manageable - the one sticking point is on the deeper pockets, the openings are a bit narrow and I find my first knuckle "sticking" in the hold a bit which can slow me down.

Additionally, I find that the wide pinch pinches the skin on my thumbs a bit uncomfortably, but as these are the best pinches I have ever come across for hang-boarding am quite willing to tolerate. I have not yet incorporated the smaller pinches so I am not sure if they will provide a similar experience.

I'm a little uncertain on the best usage of the "tapered" crimps - do people use tick marks to locate their hands on this hold, or just bunch up at one end or the other?

Finally, I've taken to calling the smallest hold the "hateful crimp" and echo the assessments that it might be evil incarnate. I had to start with a baseline of -30, which is like 20% of my bodyweight. That being said it makes getting stronger on it that much sweeter.

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By Mike Stearns
May 7, 2014
top of grand
Ben, I have the same issue with thumb skin discomfort while pinching. I found that only using the first pad of my thumb alleviates the rolling, but makes the pinch even harder (already a weak grip for me).

I believe the bumps on the tapered crimps are meant to line up with the tip of each finger, allowing for 1 finger width increments of very repeatable adjustment. Does that make sense? I am having a hard time with the words this morning.

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By Ben Circello
May 7, 2014
Good call on the single pad thumb usage Mike, it hadn't even occurred to me. I'll have to try it out.

I must not have noticed bumps within the tapered ledge, to be honest I only played around with it when I first got the board and it's not in my rotations yet. I'll have to check for those when I get home.

As an aside, your set-up is super sweet. Training outside makes me super jealous.

Cheers.

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By Dr. Chris Lee
Aug 7, 2014
I have just started using the RPTC and overall it is very well thought out. I am however confused about the variable depth rail. I get why having various sizes is great, but basically your fingers are all on different size holds. Your index is on a biggish hold while your pinky is on a noticeably smaller one. Sure you might find such a hold outside, but you might find the opposite too. This seems counter productive. Does anyone have comments? Mark A., I know you have put tons of thought into this board, and I do like it otherwise, so thanks for any feedback!

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By slim
Administrator
Aug 7, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
the variable depth edge works pretty well for the 4 finger open crimp. it allows your index to be pretty much open, middle and ring to be half crimped, and pinky to be pretty much open. it took me a little bit to get used to, but after using it a bunch i really like it. when i used to do the 4foc on a constant depth edge i was always trying to get as much of my pinky as possible on the hold, so i would over-rotate my wrists. this kind of bugged my wrists a bit.

with the little bumps inside, it is pretty easy to consistently hit the same part of the edge. takes a little practice, but once you get the hang of it you can do it without thinking too much.

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By aliebling
Sep 6, 2014
A couple of random questions:

1. How are people attaching the weight? Currently, I have a loop of 5mm with an overhand at either end which I run through the weights and clip to a biner. There has to be a better way.

2. Rock Prodigy specific - when using the middle pinch, the top of my hand wraps up and over the top of the board like a pseudo-sloper instead of a true pinch. The other alternative is only to pinch with the first two pads of my fingers and the first pad of my thumb...which will require taking off some serious weight! How are people using this hold? With my hand size, this isn't an issue with the wide pinch, as that takes my whole hand.

3. When do people start moving in or out on the variable width edges versus changing resistance?

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By Dan Austin
From San Francisco, CA
Sep 7, 2014
aliebling wrote:
A couple of random questions: 1. How are people attaching the weight? Currently, I have a loop of 5mm with an overhand at either end which I run through the weights and clip to a biner. There has to be a better way.


I tie a figure 8 on a bight into the weight end of the cord and clip a biner to that. Then I girth hitch each weight plate with a sling. This makes it easy to adjust weights between sets by just clipping/unclipping them onto the figure 8.

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By BarbM
5 days ago
aliebling wrote:
A couple of random questions: 1. How are people attaching the weight? Currently, I have a loop of 5mm with an overhand at either end which I run through the weights and clip to a biner. There has to be a better way. 2. Rock Prodigy specific - when using the middle pinch, the top of my hand wraps up and over the top of the board like a pseudo-sloper instead of a true pinch. The other alternative is only to pinch with the first two pads of my fingers and the first pad of my thumb...which will require taking off some serious weight! How are people using this hold? With my hand size, this isn't an issue with the wide pinch, as that takes my whole hand. 3. When do people start moving in or out on the variable width edges versus changing resistance?



2. The only way I could figure out how to use that pinch was to take off a good bit of my body weight. Now that I have a good number of sessions under my belt, I am able to use less negative weight.

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