Iniquity 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Brad Weaver, Kipp Trummel - 2007 |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marcil on Oct 31, 2009 |
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The no-hands rest halfway up Iniquity.
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Description Bring your bouldering skills.
The route starts with a V4-V5 boulder problem on tiny crimps. Bring edgy shoes.
Once passed the buiness, embark on a magical journey of long reached on big holds on a slightly overhanging face. Move right to a huge no hands rest and make a scary clip.
Make your way up to smaller holds before engaging the dynamic finish on big holds.
ouf.
P.S. If you can't make the start, I still suggest you try the rest of the route. Very very exciting.
Location Towards the right-end of the cliff. Look for the route with the hardest start.
Protection 8 bolts, fixed draws to anchors.
Beginning up the pumpy wall.
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Nearing the bitter crux, just below the chains.
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Settting up for the crux move.
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 22, 2011
| A great climb, but no where near as good as it's neighbor "Cell Block Six" and other climbs on the wall. A disproportionately hard start leads past some huge loose holds, to a rest, to a scary clip. I felt like I had to pass this clip and clip from above, which would put you near the ramp you just rested on if you fell. From there it is great climbing to the top. |
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