|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Tom Souders, Jeff Koenig, Ron Snyder, 8/'83|
|Season:||Faces South, but gets early and late shade.|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Feb 10, 2007|
|Comments on Inhibitor||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kris Gorny
Jun 15, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|Taped hands for the bottom crack make it less painful. Also, I'm sure I would've fallen off at the beginning of the offwidth/chimney section if I hadn't find a little handhold on the left inside wall of the crack. Makes it easier.|
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 17, 2007
|One of the finest pitches of crackclimbing I have done. It is made even better in that it is found smack dab in the middle of sportclimbing disneyland. I found no need for anything larger than a #4 Camelot although one could easily find spots to place larger cams. The overhanging hands finish is simply fantastic.|
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
GREAT climbing...this is truly a stellar route. The upper jam crack stymied me twice...
Just like the guidebook says...it takes a #4 C4 to protect the move into the squeeze, a #5 C4 above your head to protect the move out (clip it long), and hand- and fist-sized cams for the rest.
I'd also recommend keeping your right hip free of gear...
By Lorenzo de Amicis
Jan 20, 2013
|Beautiful climb and definitely not P-13. All moves can be protected and you don't need anything bigger than a 5 for getting out of the squeeze chimney. I HIGHLY recommend it.|