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Ingalls Peak, South Ridge 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Keith Rankin and Ken Solberg, May 30, 1941.
Page Views: 3,572
Submitted By: WouterVW on Jun 19, 2012

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Do note that similar to other climbs in the area, ...


p-1: Is the low angle slab up from the dirt. Easy ground, class 4 or 5.fun.

p-2: The broken stuff below the big ledge (some call it the “dance floor”) at the base of the slab, above the lower pitch. Other than one little bit of serpentine, it is easy scramble (depending on water, etc.). Big block at the base to sling as anchor for p-1. Very short pitch. Might sling one block for protection or place one piece depending on how the scramble looks. Easily combined with pitch 1.

p-3: There are two crack systems (the 5.4 on the left and 5.6 in the middle) heading up. The pitch ends at a ledge on the right of the vertical crack. It is not all that obvious and don't climb all the way to the huge ledge at the top of the face. The ledge fits 3 people if they are friends. 4 if they are really close friends. Two big bolts at the ledge (and there used to be two pitons in the crack above the ledge, only one there now). 60m does not reach on rap – it is about 15’ short.

p-4: Lower part is just a continuation of the 3rd pitch. Upper part has a couple of cracks to choose from. The left corner has good protection both in the crack and on the left face. 3 bolts on top, serpentine face to slip on. If people are on rappel, climb the corner to the top.

Do not rappel all the way down to the top of the second pitch from the top of the fourth. Two 60m ropes will make it, but you have a really good chance to get your rope stuck. There is a crack a couple of feet below the top anchor that likes to wedge your rope. Rappelling to the top of the third pitch lessens this risk because the angle is different.


Start at Ingalls way trail 1390, turn right towards Longs Pass, then left towards Ingalls Pass. Once over the pass, traverse on snow or follow trail to the south notch of the south peak. See map ('A' is the start of the climb, 'B' is the trailhead):


Normal rack to 2" with a set of nuts. Larger hexes work well in the serpentine cracks.

Photos of Ingalls Peak, South Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
The route runs from the snow in the very bottom le...
BETA PHOTO: The route runs from the snow in the very bottom le...

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By Seth Moore
Jul 7, 2013

While the rappel is possible with a 60m rope, using a 60m on the rappel of the third pitch leaves you with two challenging options. Either you will likely run out of rope and have to down climb the last 10 feet or so of the pitch (4th class or 5.easy - which is what the party ahead of us did) or you can rappel to the right of the serpentine and stop midway through the 3rd pitch. However, this option means rappelling over some very unsavory loose rock, some of which is rather dangerous in size.

Bring a 70m rope if you have one.
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