Ingalls Peak, East Ridge
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BETA PHOTO: Looking at Ingalls Peak with the route highlighted...
Head up the obvious (snow) gully until you see a weird rock layer. Go left for 15 feet and you're at the base. Rope up here.
P1: Head up serpentine rock with little pro. The stuff is slippery and you can pull most cams out without a problem. Only put pro in where you know it will hold. The pitch forces you to the right, back into the gully. This is all mostly class 4. When you're almost in the gully, start looking for better rock and a different line more to the left. You don't want to end up at the chock stone. Follow this line to the ridge, low class 5. Build a belay when you're on the ridge. (fun)
P2: You're looking at the first gendarme. Walk over the flat area to the 'wall' and look on the right. There's a crack that you can use to put pro in and climb up. At the top walk over to the other end. There's a sharp ridge that you can traverse on small knobs on the left or 'au cheval' to the end of the ridge. Down climb into the notch and build an anchor. Put a lot of gear at the end of the ridge for your second, or they will be free climbing down. (scary for seconds)
P3: Second Gendarme. Head to the right around some featureless rock and then straight up to the ridge. There's a large boulder on the ridge with slings on it. Belay from here. (boring)
P4: Head up the ridge until it becomes horizontal, low class 5 with lots of places to put pro. You see a knife-edge heading right. Both sides are possible, but climber's left is more fun. There are good ridges and a horn in the middle you can sling for pro. After the traverse down-climb into a notch. Good ledges for down-climbing. Around the 'corner' is a big boulder. Throw a cordelette around it and belay from there. (fun!)
P5: You are looking at a long traverse with the final rock pitch at the end. Walk to the base of the vertical rock, class 3 with exposure. Add some pro if and where you feel like it. At the base is a sling. Belay from there. (boring)
P6: Crux pitch. From the belay go up the obvious crack (5.fun) and 10 feet up you see a crack go left to the ridge. Use your #4 or big hex here. Right foot in the crack, the other smearing while you jam your fists in the crack. Reach for the ridge with your left hand and you're done (5.7). Good pro immediately after the crux move. Be careful about your pack, it can get stuck in the crux move. Easy traverse to the summit (don't forget to protect the down-climb). (fun)
From the summit, follow the direction you came in and you'll see the rap bolts (3) at the top of the South Ridge route. Rap from here with a single rope. The next station is on climber's right. It's a ledge in a otherwise flat slab with bolts. You'll need to 'walk' a bit over to get to the bolts. Don't go too far down! Rap with two ropes from here to the big platform below. Don't try to rap from the summit to this platform because the angle your ropes will make will likely make them get stuck. Rap a single rope to the top of lower slab. Double rope rappel to the base of the South Ridge.
Start at Ingalls way trail 1390, turn right towards Longs Pass, then left towards Ingalls Pass. Once over the pass, traverse on snow or follow trail to above Ingalls Lake. You'll see the obvious gully from the approach. See map ('B' is the start of the climb, 'A' is the trailhead): mapper.acme.com/?ll=47.47208,-...
Some small cams, single BD .5 & .75 and doubles of BD 1 & 2. Some mid-sized nuts, a set of hexes.
You need a BD #4 for the crux move, or protect it with big hexes.
5 quickdraws and some double length slings for horns
You need doubles ropes to rappel the south side. Don't try to rappel the route, or you'll be miserable.
BETA PHOTO: Ingalls North - East Ridge photo taken from summit...
BETA PHOTO: Obvious gully and the first pitch.
Marsha high on the East Ridge
Approach to the obvious gully
Panorama from just below final pitch, looking back...
By Lan Dogan
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 3, 2015
First pitch was still snow covered for our climb. We were able to skip this by scrambling up the slab on other side of the pillar climbers left and traversing the ledge to the anchor (alternative pitch 1 of class 3 for the slab scramble and class 4 for the traverse).
From: Beaverton, Oregon
Jun 7, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ingalls North Peak East Ridge has fun climbing and amazing scenery. Rock is sound with good friction. use minimal pro to keep rope drag manageable. Downclimbs have good holds but will be the mental crux if you're not comfortable with that.
Some extra beta:
P2 if you use pro early rope drag will be horrible. Go up and pass gendarme, pro for 2nd before downclimb and in small crack about 1/2 way down using a really small cam or a nut. Move across notch and then move up as far as rope drag will allow on Easy terrain.
P5 easy terrain move to right over to a vertical section, no pro needed until you go up the towards a crack above you. Moving right looked more exciting than moving left as provided in original description. Blocks sounded hollow but felt solid. Maybe a single 5.7 move. No big cams or hexes needed.
Pro: gear to BD C4 #3. Doubles not necessary. no hexes. Used #4 for an anchor but not necessary so don't bring it.
Rap: single 70m on Ingalls North - South Route. Bolts are 1 min walk below you down a foot path Loose rocks near bolts don't knock em down. Extremely Slippery serpentine rock at start of rap so pay attention. 3 raps on 70m. You can see each station from above.