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Mt Stuart
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Cascadian Couloir 
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Ingalls Peak, East Ridge T 
Ingalls Peak, South Ridge T 
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Ingalls Peak, East Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 900', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Don Jones and Barry Prather in June 1957
Page Views: 1,723
Submitted By: WouterVW on Jun 20, 2013

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Approach to the obvious gully


Head up the obvious (snow) gully until you see a weird rock layer. Go left for 15 feet and you're at the base. Rope up here.

P1: Head up serpentine rock with little pro. The stuff is slippery and you can pull most cams out without a problem. Only put pro in where you know it will hold. The pitch forces you to the right, back into the gully. This is all mostly class 4. When you're almost in the gully, start looking for better rock and a different line more to the left. You don't want to end up at the chock stone. Follow this line to the ridge, low class 5. Build a belay when you're on the ridge. (fun)

P2: You're looking at the first gendarme. Walk over the flat area to the 'wall' and look on the right. There's a crack that you can use to put pro in and climb up. At the top walk over to the other end. There's a sharp ridge that you can traverse on small knobs on the left or 'au cheval' to the end of the ridge. Down climb into the notch and build an anchor. Put a lot of gear at the end of the ridge for your second, or they will be free climbing down. (scary for seconds)

P3: Second Gendarme. Head to the right around some featureless rock and then straight up to the ridge. There's a large boulder on the ridge with slings on it. Belay from here. (boring)

P4: Head up the ridge until it becomes horizontal, low class 5 with lots of places to put pro. You see a knife-edge heading right. Both sides are possible, but climber's left is more fun. There are good ridges and a horn in the middle you can sling for pro. After the traverse down-climb into a notch. Good ledges for down-climbing. Around the 'corner' is a big boulder. Throw a cordelette around it and belay from there. (fun!)

P5: You are looking at a long traverse with the final rock pitch at the end. Walk to the base of the vertical rock, class 3 with exposure. Add some pro if and where you feel like it. At the base is a sling. Belay from there. (boring)

P6: Crux pitch. From the belay go up the obvious crack (5.fun) and 10 feet up you see a crack go left to the ridge. Use your #4 or big hex here. Right foot in the crack, the other smearing while you jam your fists in the crack. Reach for the ridge with your left hand and you're done (5.7). Good pro immediately after the crux move. Be careful about your pack, it can get stuck in the crux move. Easy traverse to the summit (don't forget to protect the down-climb). (fun)

From the summit, follow the direction you came in and you'll see the rap bolts (3) at the top of the South Ridge route. Rap from here with a single rope. The next station is on climber's right. It's a ledge in a otherwise flat slab with bolts. You'll need to 'walk' a bit over to get to the bolts. Don't go too far down! Rap with two ropes from here to the big platform below. Don't try to rap from the summit to this platform because the angle your ropes will make will likely make them get stuck. Rap a single rope to the top of lower slab. Double rope rappel to the base of the South Ridge.


Start at Ingalls way trail 1390, turn right towards Longs Pass, then left towards Ingalls Pass. Once over the pass, traverse on snow or follow trail to above Ingalls Lake. You'll see the obvious gully from the approach. See map ('B' is the start of the climb, 'A' is the trailhead): mapper.acme.com/?ll=47.47208,-...


Some small cams, single BD .5 & .75 and doubles of BD 1 & 2. Some mid-sized nuts, a set of hexes.
You need a BD #4 for the crux move, or protect it with big hexes.

5 quickdraws and some double length slings for horns

You need doubles ropes to rappel the south side. Don't try to rappel the route, or you'll be miserable.

Photos of Ingalls Peak, East Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Looking at Ingalls Peak with the route highlighted...
BETA PHOTO: Looking at Ingalls Peak with the route highlighted...
Obvious gully and the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Obvious gully and the first pitch.
Marsha high on the East Ridge
Marsha high on the East Ridge

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