Infrared 

The top pitch might pull a 12a if it was just put up in Clear Creek, but it is not, there is no move that would be 11b in Eldo, just a slightly pumpy jugfest... Awesome route, highly recommended...

I agree with everything the AC who posted the first comment said. A top flight tower route, up there w/ Fine Jade, Jah Man and a small handful of other super classics. For my money, the last pitch ranks with the crux of Shune's Buttress as one of the two best I've done in the desert.

Good job by Smith and Anker, sussing this out and placing just the right amount of bolts on the last pitch.

I thought the ratings in the Bjornstadt route description were all soft and that the pitches went as follows: 5.10, 5.10, 5.10, 5.11c.

Note: rather than just hauling the 2nd line up the last pitch, have the leader use it as a double rope. This would reduce rope drag and probably provide a better TR for the second.

One hint. If the second is too tired or hot or wimpy to do the last pitch, cleaning the draws on rappel is very hard.I should know... I was the wimpy second and watched my partner struggle.

Great route. Don't forget to bring the rack on the last pitch... it may be bolted, but its not sport. Also, the gear list above is a little short on thin gear... we used this gear list instead of the Bjornstad list, and would have liked to have doubles in blue through red aliens for the first pitch, which we felt was just as hard (more technical, but no burl factor) as the 2nd and 3rd pitches. I'd rate the pitches 10+, 10+, 10+, 11.

Awesome route. The last pitch is one of the most spectacular in the desert. 11a, 10+, 10+, 11c.

Super cool route. We found the climbing pretty difficult, but I'll stay out of the ratings discussion. I will say that there is a large hollow flake on the second pitch that deserves a heads up. Also, a good rack for us would have been (1) 0 tcu, (2) blue tcu to #1 camalot, (3) #2 camalots, (4) # 3 camalots, (1) 3.5 camalot. You can leave all but a single set of cams at the 3rd belay.

Couldn't find the bolts for the rap on this route and rapped from Clearlight's slung block anchor... it sucked swinging/pulling back to the Infrared anchor.

There are rappel anchors for the last pitch. They are directly above the previous anchors on the face. Kinda hard to find but they're there...

This is a beautiful route that gets better and better as you climb higher. The third and last pitches are the most interesting. To me the first pitch was the hardest because of the poor quality of the rock and so so protection. Don't forget to fix a rope to the anchor at the top of the third pitch for the rappel from the top of the tower or you will find yourself in a pickle. I climbed it with Mike Kaserman by the end of November. The first pitch was in the sun by 10.30 am.