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Broken Tooth
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YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 2,072
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 17, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Toby cruxing on Inflictor


This is the thin finger and tips crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. It's often toproped and my understanding is that it's only seen a couple leads.


Thin crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. Shares anchor with Polygrip, but is commonly toproped from anchors on Rock Lobster.


Thin stuff up to 1.5 Friend, heavy in tips and finger sizes.

Photos of Inflictor Slideshow Add Photo
at the top before sunset
at the top before sunset
Sustained fingers.
Sustained fingers.
Racing shadows
Racing shadows
Matt Pesce climbing in style
Matt Pesce climbing in style
Comments on Inflictor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 1, 2008

I agree that this route is most often toproped. I have lead it and know of multiple others who have as well. Pro is safe and plentiful. It actually takes stoppers in multiple places. My guess is that it has seem more than the "couple" leads the original poster claims it's seem.

By chris Kalous
Mar 9, 2009

So...if we fix up some anchors on this cliff with chains and such, would anybody freak if this got its own anchor? Running the rope off of Rock Lobster or Polygrip seems to have caused a hell of a lot more damage than a couple bolts would have.

By Ol' Toby
From: CO
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Unlikely that this has seen few leads as the crack takes great gear. I found this to be an .11+ finger crack with a definite crux section where the crack pinches to tips, then beautiful .11 fingers to the top. The only detraction is that one could stem/reach to the Rock Lobster crack at key points, making the direct line slightly contrived. Still a beautiful line offering great climbing.

I support adding independent anchors to this line. Definitely good enough and toproping from either of the other anchors is causing obvious drag marks on the rock.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Like a longer Puma.

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
May 4, 2011

Went straight for it on lead..NTB gear down low is kinda wierd, but takes nuts great. super fun with good movement. A few times I wanted to step over to RL and finish on that, but hung in there instead. 5.11

By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 15, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

this is one where size really does matter...only smaller is better !
this was one of the hardest .12- ive done.

By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 15, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I agree with the anchor comments...really could have its own anchor.
this would help with the rope grooves.