This route is a nice, varied pitch that offers a little bit of everything. The crux is pretty sustained on bomber rock. Start in the back of a small cave and work up to a small roof. Bypass it and continue up the wide crack for about 55ft. to a roof. Pull over two roofs to a nice shelf in a left-facing corner. Finish on the face to the right of this short dihedral. Rap from Fixe ring anchors.
Start 15' right of the No More Tiers overhang in the back of a short left-facing dihedral/offwidth.
A few big cams would be helpful for the offwidth but are not necessary. I was able to place a green alien and .75 camalot along the way instead. Standard rack with emphasis from .75-#3 camalot.
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Mega classic, but a bit scary for me personally...I didn't stop to place gear for a while---could potentially place thin nuts (???) right after crux.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 2, 2011
I loved this route. I placed a new-style #4 Camalot in the wideness down low. Not sure where Jason found smaller cam placements. The upper roof crux is pure fun. It's easy to feel like a hero when you're pulling a big roof, way above the valley.