Infinite Bliss

I'm curious if anyone has been out to Mt. Garfield recently.

My partner and I were planning to climb Infinite Bliss this Saturday, but I've just encountered information on the road closures. Is it true that you can't get any farther than Mailbox trailhead until 12pm on Fridays?

We can go Saturday, but were hoping to avoid running into any other parties on the route considering how important efficiency is to cover that much ground.

Thanks!

and yes, I have spent several hours reading the various arguments and discussions on cascadeclimbers.com. I am aware of the controversial nature of this route, the danger of the minimally bolted middle pitches, and all of the route finding issues.

Shame on you for climbing IB. You might as well be trampling wildflowers off-trail in Paradise Meadows with your dog off leash pooping everywhere while lighting off fireworks.

Jacob Schmidt wrote:Is it true that you can't get any farther than Mailbox trailhead until 12pm on Fridays?

I think my first cams were infinite Bliss. No wait wired Bliss?

Go sleep at the TH on Friday night and start climbing at first daylight; you'll most likely be the first ones, if not the only ones, there. It's not like it's that popular of a route...

I found the crux of IB to be the approach, but that was 4-5 years ago. We lost at least 20-30 minutes just trying to find the point where you exit out of the trees onto the base of the huge slab. IIRC, when in doubt, go left. Although I'm sure by now the trail is much more prominent.

Also, bring more water than you think you'll need. The thing is a giant solar collector and gets HOT. We ran out of water around Pitch 13 and got dangerously dehydrated.

And finally, sleeping at the TH is great beta because you can get moving at first light and get most of the route finished before it really starts getting hot.

Here is a link to the current road schedule closures. Looks like it opens every Friday at noon for the next couple weeks.

flh.fhwa.dot.gov/projects/w…

Thanks for the info (and the trolling)!

The fastest way to get IB done is to take another party with you so you can leapfrog through the raps.

Oh man, I forgot all about the raps. Throwing ropes on the bottom 12-14 pitches is IMPOSSIBLE because of the slabs. The ropes land in a tangled ball 30' below you and then you spend 15 minutes per rappel just straightening the ropes out.

Fastest way to descend is to lower your partner down off the anchor, then rappel the nice straight ropes.

Jon H wrote:Oh man, I forgot all about the raps. Throwing ropes on the bottom 12-14 pitches is IMPOSSIBLE because of the slabs. The ropes land in a tangled ball 30' below you and then you spend 15 minutes per rappel just straightening the ropes out. Fastest way to descend is to lower your partner down off the anchor, then rappel the nice straight ropes.

I am heading up to IB august 11th/12th.
It sounds like camping at the trail head is the best option, what about at the base?
Researching it seems that rapping can get to be a bit of an issue around pitch 15-16, does any one have any updated information on the rap route?
I am presuming there is zero option for any gear placement on the run out sections, is this correct?
Cheers in advance.

I'd car camp if I were you, the approach is short but steep and no real flat spots at the base.

If you're on route it's really not ran out and that section is mellow.

The raps are long, I might stash a water and sugar pack around pitch 12 to grab on the way down...

Again, talk another rope party into going and leap frog the raps.

In regards to getting in. Is the road closed during the week?
I see it was due to be closed for July, is that still the case?

If it is closed how far can one drive in before walking is necessary?Any over night camp spots? Is water about for camping or should i walk that in also.

Heading up Thursday to climb Friday, if we can get in!!!

Cheers.