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Infinite Bliss T,S 

Infinite Bliss 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, Sport, 23 pitches, 2600', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
Page Views: 10,307
Submitted By: 20 kN on May 31, 2013

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Looking up from the start of Infinite Bliss. Matt...


Infinite Bliss is a super fun 23-pitch bolted route in a beautiful setting. While it was quite controversial when first established and there was talk of chopping the line, it has become an enjoyable line that appears is here to stay.

This route is not a sport climb. It is a bolt-protected slab climb, and it is extremely long which means you need to be quick and efficient. There are sections where runouts can top 100 feet with little to no options for trad gear. However, any move harder than 5.6 is well protected, and the crux pitches are fully-bolted sport pitches.

The “parking lot” and approach is at N47.54604, W121.52151, Elevation: 1174'. Simply copy and paste the GPS coordinates, excluding the elevation, into Google Maps and it will tell you how to get there. From the parking lot, the approach is about 45 minutes long and is mostly uphill through switchbacks in the forest. While the trail was not explicitly marked when I climbed the route, it is worn enough that if you are hiking more than a few minutes and it does not look like you are on a trail, you are off route.

Pitches 1 – 7: These pitches involves easy, low-angle, somewhat runout climbing on solid slab. The rock can be a bit water-polished. Be careful if there are parties above you because if they knock rock down, it will blast right through the first six pitches at lightspeed. Numerous bent hangers on these pitches are obvious indicators of the rock fall hazard. If you are confident simulclimbing 5.8, the first six pitches are the place to do it.

Pitches 8 – 12: The rock starts to steepen here, but the pitches become more closely bolted as the moves get harder.

Pitches 13 – 18: Mostly easy climbing. The most runout section is in here. Be very careful not to knock loose rock down on climbers below as the rock quality in this section is fair in some areas. Don’t feel bad if you don’t find the bolts on P15 as I missed both of them. P16 and 17 have no pro aside from the belay station. The climbing is very easy, but the rock quality is fair and the rock tends to be slightly polished, so be careful.

Pitches 19 – 23: These are the hardest pitches, but they are mostly sport-bolted pitches. Both of the 5.10 pitches are well bolted.

For more info, Google Infinite Bliss. Summit Post has a nice write-up on the route. You can find a topo here:

WARNING: Rock fall is a serious concern here. Wear a helmet, and once you pass pitch six, be extremely careful not to knock loose rock down on other climbers. The entire route follows a gully slab, and if you knock rock down it will have nowhere to go but right along the route the entire way.


Seventeen quickdraws, or 30 if you plan to simulclimb. Bring 2' trad draws as you will get a bunch of drag using only sport climbing draws. You do need two 60m ropes. A 70m or 80m is not long enough. I did not see many worthwhile trad placements when I climbed it as the route is mostly slab. If you really want to bring trad gear, bring a set of nuts, but don’t plan to do much with them.

Photos of Infinite Bliss Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of Infinite Bliss
Summit of Infinite Bliss
Rock Climbing Photo: End of the pitch 22 traverse.
End of the pitch 22 traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top of pitch 6 with the entr...
Looking down from the top of pitch 6 with the entr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Compton leading pitch 6 (5.7) at the end of t...
Matt Compton leading pitch 6 (5.7) at the end of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Mt. Garfield from near the beginning of...
Looking up Mt. Garfield from near the beginning of...
Rock Climbing Photo: The damaged bolt at the second to last rap station...
BETA PHOTO: The damaged bolt at the second to last rap station...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the rappels off the summit.
Starting the rappels off the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere below pitch 5.  Matt Compton leading a l...
Somewhere below pitch 5. Matt Compton leading a l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thankful for the survey tape :)
Thankful for the survey tape :)
Rock Climbing Photo: Great views of the Middle Fork Valley from the top...
Great views of the Middle Fork Valley from the top...

Comments on Infinite Bliss Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 14, 2016
By Jon H
From: Boulder
Jun 24, 2013

Got on this last summer. Bailed at the top of P13 because we ran out of water (it was 90 degrees) and the rental car was due back at 5PM. Would love to get back and send this thing properly.

The crux for us (besides running out of water) was the approach. Leave ample time to find the start of the route.
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jul 21, 2013

We had no trouble finding the route. We made it to the base in 45 min. The trail is pretty beat in. If it wasn't for those 5.0 pitches half way up this would be such a great route. The chossiness of those pitches really bring it down. Took us 14 hours car to car.
By rohanbk
Jul 23, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Could someone indicate why this route is 'R' rated? Is it because of the extremely run-out low fifth class pitches?
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jul 24, 2013

It is "R" rated because you literally climb 200 feet without a bolt over super chossy although easy terrain. Every move harder than 5.7 is well protected.
By 20 kN
From: Hawaii
Dec 24, 2013

GPS coordinates for the "parking lot."

Elevation: 1174'
By Dan Birman
From: Berlin, Germany
Jun 8, 2014

Like many other people we got lost in the chossy section. The intermediate anchor is directly above the first bush WITH slings (80'). It isn't visible from any direction until you're about 15 feet away. From the anchor below the choss to the intermediate is > 200'.
By Chris-Bailey
From: Olympia, WA
Jul 11, 2014

Looking for information on the road closure:

Do you now, if so desired, could you hike (yeah 12 mile approach) or bike in? Has anyone been in there to investigate, see if access is still possible during the week (I'm one of those Sat-Mon work week kind of people?

By Johan
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 4, 2014

Did this yesterday. I'm going to give the current conditions of the road, which will likely stay relevant through the next year of construction, and then some general comments.

The MF road is currently closed at the CCC trail trailhead, about 2.6 miles before the Taylor creek bridge. The closure meant that we biked in from the current closure point. The road is currently perfectly bikeable, but the planned roadwork over the coming weeks may interfere. We stashed bikes where the trail branches from the road. Parked car at 6:45am, climbing by 8:30am (including a bathroom break at the campground en route).

We thought we were being super clever by biking in and getting on this when the road is closed. Yesterday, Sunday, was actually our second attempt of the weekend after heading up there Saturday. On Saturday we got on the route at 8:30am (same approach times), only to find one party had slept at the base, who in turn thought they were super clever but another party had in fact slept at the top of P7. On Sunday we were alone on the route.

On Saturday the joke was on the top party, because when we reached the P10 anchors at around 10:30am, a series of massive thunderstorms started, with dime-size hail. We started bailing, as did the party that had slept at the base of the route (we had caught up to them at P10). Another storm bubbled up an hour later while descending. When we reached the base of the route we could see the top party was rapping around P14. On the bike ride out, another storm hit. Know that when a downpour comes through, the majority of the pitches turn into waterfalls, and much of the climbing is friction climbing, making it basically a game over.

Climbing this route with parties above/below is extremely unnerving. On Saturday we saw several golfball-to-softball sized shrapnel pieces come down, and on Sunday we couldn't avoid causing the same, especially over the P15-17 chossfest, both ascending and descending. These pitches are very different from other alpine choss I've climbed: it's a low angle continuous slab, with no blockiness or ledges to halt a major fall, and every hold is suspect, for at least these 400 feet.

Why there's no anchor other than the bush between the current P16 and P15 stations is beyond me, it's currently basically impossible to ascend or descend the route without unroping or "simuling with a death pact" -- no gear between. It's very psychologically taxing to climb these two pitches, both on the way up and down, and honestly felt like the crux of the route. Dealing with the double ropes on the chossy low angle rap was a lot of work at a very tired state.

The climbing is not that hard, and all the hard pitches, rated 10b, 10c, 10a, are tightly bolted enough that pulling on draws can easily get you up at a 5.9 A0 grade. Our ascent of the 10c pitch was definitely a case of reverting to 5.9 A0 after so much climbing. This route would be 4-stars if it wasn't for the P15-17 choss. The climbing on the rest of the route is fantastic!

The times I remember where: 5:45am leave Seattle, 6:45am park at CCC trailhead, 8:30am climb, 10:15am at top of P8, 7pm top out, 7:30pm start raps, 12:30am off route, 2:30am back at car, 3:30am home in Seattle. Basically a 16hr climb. We would have been faster overall if we weren't tired from the Saturday attempt through P10. We were also very slow through the P15-17, in both directions. It would be faster to simply unrope for the ascent/descent of the choss, and acknowledge that that's the level of sketch-commitment you have to be OK with to do this route. What made us want to do the approach twice in a weekend I still don't know, but hey, psych was high!

A monumental route, but because of the choss section I don't see myself ever doing it again.
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Sep 19, 2014

RIP Ross Halverson, who died on this route on 9/9/14.
By 20 kN
From: Hawaii
Oct 9, 2014

what happened?
By Jon Nelson
Oct 29, 2014

The accident somehow involved rapping off the end of the rope, but the details are not clear.
By pyr
Feb 16, 2015


What is the best period to attempt this route. It looks like I will be in the area in mid-june, is it too early ?

By 20 kN
From: Hawaii
Apr 26, 2015

No mid June is not too early. It might be rather hot then actually.
By Andrewcarlson
From: Tacoma, Washington
Mar 14, 2016

I'm living in Tacoma from now until the end of May. Is this route possible between now and then?? Thanks

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