2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
By Chris Plesko From: Westminster, CO May 26, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
If you're short this could be 5.9 and a spicy first clip (we didn't bother with a cam), but if you're 5'10"+, just stem and use your feet and it's pretty easy to get to the jug out left. I practically had a no hands stance below the reach.
By farkas.time From: Sheffield, SY Jul 15, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Make sure you don't think this is Chouette, which is not in the Boulder Canyon guide. I managed to convince myself that it was. Oops.
One could just go for the first bolt without placing gear behind the (awkward) left-facing crack, as suggested, just don't fall -- it will be uncomfortable, and the start is technical. A small cam makes this start less scary.
Also, I didn't place a second cam above the 2nd bolt, and felt safe, whatever that's worth. The first 20' is 5.9, the remainder is 5.5-5.7.
Hard first move or two, then 5.6-7 or so climbing the rest of the way.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 11, 2012 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
FWIW, this had been climbed at least by 2001 if not earlier.
By John Tex From: My camper, CO Mar 19, 2013 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
There is some really nice holds at the first clip with one of the harder moves of the route getting to them. If you just stem and find the good feet, it shouldn't be a problem without some additional gear. There is another crimpy crux move later on that is well protected but definitely goes along with the rating in my opinion.
One of the better protected routes on the crag for someone without a trad rack. If you can make the first bolt, then the rest of it is doable without a rack. Don't think the wasp nest made it through the winter.
By Eric Klammer From: Boulder, CO Apr 23, 2013 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Hardest moves are getting off the ground. A wet start and confusion as to which route we were actually on made the crux a little harder than necessary. Probably 5.9 if you climb it right. Pro at the start is recommended if only to keep you from taking your partner down the hill if you fall....
By Jim Fox From: Westminster, CO Jul 26, 2014 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
First 15-20 feet is really fun. A bit reachy for shorter folks (I'm 5'9"). My son is 6'2" and was able to climb it with a lot less difficulty (and fewer moves).
1st bolt is a little high & placing a piece of pro lower is a good idea (for reason in post above) unless you are confident you won't fall (or stick clip the bolt).