|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 380'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||B. Anderson and W. Christian Aug 1972|
|Submitted By:||lee hansche on Jun 2, 2007|
|Comments on Inferno||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 14, 2008
|If not the best trad 5.8 in the state then I don't know what is.|
By Chris Norfolk
From: Fredericton, New Brunswick
Jan 5, 2010
|Agreed. Don't miss this climb.|
By Larry S
Jul 7, 2010
Finding it: If you're standing below some blankish slabs with a bolt or two, you're too low, head left then scramble right onto the ledge.
P1 seems really contrived and is a bit difficult to follow. Just keep looking for the path of least resistance trending right then back left to the vertical section of the arching roof-crack. There was a small wasp nest in the bottom of the flake midway up as of early july, so be careful. Found 1 piton, 1 ratty fixed tricam, and a freshly fixed #1 camalot. Run it all the way to the trees on the ledge, no reason to stop and make it two pitches.
P2 - Awesome, 4 stars. Follow the obvious crack above the ledge.
P3 - Follow cracks and flakes starting left of the belay to a mantle at the top.
Descent - Walk left to a tree with slings and rings. Do two 2-rope rappels. If you only have one rope and you trust it enough, there is a single bolt with a quick-link in the middle of the first rap and a tree in the middle of the second.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 21, 2010
|Just did the HTH to Inferno link up today and WOW! Great face climbing up crimps on HTH and an absolutely STELLAR crack up Inferno. It seems like it would be easy to do the top two pitches of Inferno in one shot... but the 3rd pitch belay ledge is such a nice position you might as well take a minute and appreciate the fantastic crack you just climbed.|
By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Jun 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
|Found it to be more like 3 pitches, as P2 is just walking climbers left to a belay tree. Great climbing for the whole route, but P1 was most definitely R, fairly secure face climbing with thinly spaced gear and big fall potential until reaching the Atlantis corner.|
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|It is possible to walk off left its not bad at all, we did it yesterday with our TC Pros on in wet conditions with ease|
By Ryan Nelling
Aug 9, 2013
|Came up to this from Hotter Than Hell - awesome link-up. I climbed this in one pitch - just sling the tree & extend it, clip the fixed piece long, and get to the top! Someone had left a rap anchor on the tree right above where this tops out, I guess it was dark, or they were unaware of the rappel 40 feet to climber's left.|
By Paul LaFontaine
Nov 5, 2013
|climbed pitch one of Inferno yesterday and would agree with some of the posters that the first pitch deserves an R rating. The climbing was not difficult but the confidence inspiring pro was limited and seemed like some long run outs until reaching the Atlantis corner, which gobbles up gear.|