Infernal Justice  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 70 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Submitted By:  MattL on Apr 7, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ready for the hard stuff
Infernal Justice (5.13)
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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

AMAZING route! Definitely the best one in the cave. Spectacular movement with no major rests.

Move up the left hand archway of the cave. Easy terrain (5.9ish) leads to a high first bolt - don't fall. Move up to a flat ledge, and get psyched! Some people use a scummy kneebar on a small tooth under the roof to span the gap to small edges. Considering my noob kneebar capabilities, I opted to deadpoint instead. Power up the overhanging wall, then make the coolest move at Last Chance - mandatory rose move on pockets! I believe this is the area that can sometimes seep in warmer weather. More difficult crimping gets you through the next few bolts. The rest of the route is characterized by huge lunges between big holds. Perfect bolt spacing ensures minimal time trying to clip, and awesome air time if you fall!

Endure through the final mantle, touch the chains, and take a victory whipper. Lowering off the chains causes some serious rope shredding.

Location 

See the awesome topo pics in the Solstice Cave section.

Protection 

6-7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor - all fixed draws. You may not be able to stick clip the first depending on how well endowed your stick is.