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 ADVANCED
Totem-Proto Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Shit Salad S 
Direct North Face T 
Drop 'em South S 
Fern Gully Arete S 
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 
GTKO T 
Inertia T 
Milk of Manatee T 
Original Optomist T 
Overcoming Inertia T 
Pathological Optimist T,S 
Pipe Bomb T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Protean Catch T 
Proto Pipe S 
Proto Type T 
Shakin' & Eggs T 
Totem Pole Direct S 
Totem Pole, The S 
Up in Smoke T 
Unsorted Routes:

Inertia 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: arjunmh on Apr 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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DAS on the second ascent nearing the top, rope sho...

Description 

This is the route that drew us upslope from Proto Pipe. It ascends the prominent sharp arete that gets you to the top of a hidden tower that has exceptional exposure. It's not really visible from anywhere because it doesn't skyline, but when we started exploring up above Proto Pipe this tower and route stood out. The rock quality isn't as good as we hoped and hence the 2 rather than 3 stars. 3 stars for the exposure and for getting to the top of this fantastic and improbably spire! Some tricky and heady moves, but mostly well protected climbing and we put bolts where the gear felt especially sketchy.


Location 

Upslope of Proto Pipe, ascend the sharp looking prominent arete that faces Proto and get to the top of a thin spires. Two bolt anchor with quick links and chains attached.


Protection 

3 bolts and a selection of at least a single rack, if not a double.



Photos of Inertia Slideshow Add Photo
DAS near the top.
DAS near the top.
AMH at the top after the FA.
AMH at the top after the FA.
AMH on the FA deciding that the crest of the arete wasn't going to go -- what with the loose block that my left foot's on and the sketchy rock below. Oh well...it is all on gear and to pull the roof would be way harder than any other move on the climb.
AMH on the FA deciding that the crest of the arete...
DAS after pulling the first main bulge -- we wanted to put it on the crest of the arete, but it just didn't go well and the rock below was crap.
DAS after pulling the first main bulge -- we wante...
Setting up a rappel off the second bolt after I had to climb up a second time when one end of my rope got stuck on a ledge after my first send.
Setting up a rappel off the second bolt after I ha...
Comments on Inertia Add Comment
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By ldsclimber
From: Queen Creek AZ
Apr 12, 2013

LOL You WIN!!! Great minds think alike. That is so cool, yet so disappointing a the same time. We have got to get together and climb.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 12, 2013

Thanks, and also sorry to not have done it together. It was you and Austin's efforts on the new Totem Pole routes that got David and me back over to this area. There are certainly many cool looking routes on good looking rock left to develop here! Yes, looking forward to being out there together.

By James Willis
From: Gilbert, AZ/Evanston, IL
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

It seems that the two biners on the chains were bootied as of Sunday, 5/12

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 17, 2013

Ah, I'll change the description -- I edited it on the other 4 climbs, but must've forgotten to edit this one. Sorry. A couple weeks ago David and I went in and climbed all the new routes we'd set and replaced the biners with chains such that the biners wouldn't be bootied and the anchors can be used either as TR anchors with the leader adding a couple quickdraws, or just belay from the top (recommended given the views from the tops of all these towers) and then rap off the chains. Thanks for the heads up!

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 10, 2014

Good to get on this again yesterday, but it reminded me that the top of the first arete is still covered with loose rock that I haven't cleaned off -- there are always dogs around the base that make throwing so much loose stuff off difficult. Climb carefully around this and be aware that your rope may pull stuff off if you let it pile up on the ledge while pulling (i.e. pull to climber's right of the arete).

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 19, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Finally catching up on my feedback after two weeks running around like mad. Climbed this with Arjun early this month and actually had a lot of fun. Very exposed but reasonable climbing at the top. A single set of cams and stoppers did the trick.

I looked the arÍte at the top, particularly where I had to step around left to open air. Nice climb Arjun and David!