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Indirect Savant 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: SteveZ on Oct 24, 2011
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A stout boulder problem off the ground on small crimps deposits you at a decent stance around the second bolt. A few more crimps and long pulls on bigger holds leads you back onto Idiot Savant after the fourth bolt.


This is currently the third bolted route from the right. It joins its neighbor Idiot Savant at a two bolt anchor just below the massive roof.


7 bolts plus two bolt anchor.

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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jul 30, 2013

I'm confused, is this the right or the left of the two Idiot routes? The left route felt mid-11 (we did not climb the right).

By SteveZ
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 3, 2013

If memory serves, it's the left variation as posted. You're just crushing these days? Or maybe something broke?

...or both?!

Don't remember much about it unfortunately, maybe a punchy crux down low?

By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Oct 15, 2013

This is the leftmost of the 2 Savant routes. It starts in a narrow black streak and for me is more like 12c than 11c. Maybe you could skip the crimps with a super long reach?
After climbing above the roof at the 4th clip, you will eventually rejoin Idiot Savant just before its penultimate bolt. A fall prior to clipping this bolt would probably be memorable.

By SteveZ
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 20, 2013

I was back up here recently, and I think I know what the deal is. With the newer route Notorious in, there are now three routes that end at the same anchor, and it makes it seem like the 11 (Idiot Savant) is the leftmost. Indirect Savant is farthest left of the (now) three routes there. Really small crimps and poor feet to start.