Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Indian Joe Caves
Patagonia Men's PowSlayer Bibs

$599.00 30% off

$419.30

at Patagonia

37    more...
Black Diamond Enforcer Glove

$139.95 34% off

$90.97

at Backcountry

40    more...
Patagonia Women's Down With It Parka

$299.00 29% off

$209.30

at Patagonia

34    more...
Mammut Rock Rider Helmet

$79.95 20% off

$63.96

at CampSaver

5    more...
Togir Slide Harness

$79.95 29% off

$55.97

at CampSaver

15    more...
Millet Triolet 30 Backpack - 1830cu in

$139.85 29% off

$97.90

at Backcountry

46    more...
Petzl Aztar Ice Axe

$219.95 25% off

$164.96

at Backcountry

24    more...
Patagonia Women's Active Cami

$39.00 30% off

$27.30

at Patagonia

130    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Select Route:
Bat Crack 
Cleavage, The 
Highstep Face Traverse 
Middle Right Side of the North Face on the North Ro, The 
Pull Up 
Right Side Arete on the North Face of the North Roc, The 
Shoelace Joe 
West face of Northwest Rock Roof Problem 

Indian Joe Caves 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 37.5162, -121.8305 Map
Page Views: 2,423. Good page?   
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Sep 2, 2002

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Description 

Located south-east of Pleasanton, Sunol Regional Wilderness presently only has developed climbing at Indian Joe Caves, but other opportunities appear to exist as well. There's a pretty wide variety of rock types in the park, but Indian Joe caves is meta basalt. While approaching the area, you can see some rocks on the top of a hill west of the main entrance, this is called flag mountain and appears to have climbing on it, though development has been discouraged because of concerns it would disrupt raptor nesting. There's a $4 entrance fee and the gate gets locked a little after dusk (9 p.m. in August), though camping is permitted in the park.

A pile of meta basalt rocks, Indian Joe caves offers top roping, bouldering and the occasional trad lead on formations reaching up to 40 feet. The holds tend to be either angular or crimpy and the climbing can be anything from slab, cracks, chimney, impressive aretes, or overhung faces. There's also a wide range of existing climbs, 5.3 to 5.12c. There is also the potential for several climbs with difficulties considerably higher.In the summer, Indian Joe Caves get pretty warm and it would be wisest to avoid climbing the routes that get sun, as the black rock absorbes the sun's heat and makes climbing almost unbearable. Fortunately, there's always a handful of climbs that never get sun and therefore are a lot cooler than their brighter counterparts.


Getting There 

From the 680-580 interchange, take 680 south 8 miles to the highway 84/Calaveras road. Go left on Calaveras and follow it past where the speed limit drops to 25. Shortly after the speed limit change go left (4.3 miles from the turn onto Calaveras) on Geary Road. Shortly thereafter you'll reach the fee station.

After entering the park, pass the first left turn (about 50 yards in), which heads to the visitors center, and park just beyond on the left side of the road next to a trailhead (about another 50 yards). Hike across the wooden bridge over a stream, and head right at the junction. Continue another 50 yards until you come to Hayfield Road (which you're not allowed to drive on... though bikes and horses are permitted). Go left on Hayfield road and walk up the road for .8 miles. There's an obvious sign directing you to Indian Joe Caves, follow it right, you'll be able to see the crag up the hill on your left a little ways down this smaller trail. This will meet with the Indian Joe Creek Trail and continue up hill for another ~300 yards until you arrive at the crag. The first landmark is the tallest rock, with a sharp arete on the right, the arete is Orange Arete (11a) and the face is Little Eiger (12c). Paths circumnavigate the climbing area, and most of the warm-up stuff is reached fastest by going clockwise around the area to the backside.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Indian Joe Caves:
The Cleavage   5.4     TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Shoelace Joe   V4 R     TR, Boulder, 10 feet   
Bat Crack   5.6     Trad, 25 feet   
The Right Side Arete on the North Face of the North Roc   5.9     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Pull Up   5.10a     TR, 1 pitch, 25 feet, Grade V   
Browse More Classics in Indian Joe Caves

Featured Route For Indian Joe Caves

Shoelace Joe V4 R  CA : SF Bay Area : Indian Joe Caves
Facing south east on the west-most rock with climbing at Indian Joe Caves, Shoelace Joe ascends the overhanging slight dihedral right of the start of the 5.11b roof climb (and well left of Bat Crack). Originally, we attempted it as a more exciting start to the 11b, but soon realized that it had its own personality as a quality bouldering problem. Stay right of the simpler vertical face just right of the arete....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Comments on Indian Joe Caves Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joyce Murton
From: Mountain View, CA
Jun 16, 2010

Watch out for ticks in this area. Every time my group and I have gone, one of us has come back with a tick bite.