Indian Head Cliff on Mt. Pemigewasset Rock Climbing
Southeast facing granite cliff at least 100ft at it's highest section and most of it is far less than that. 60ft maybe to summit of the mountain other than it center section. Dirty and wet on the east side. Beautiful views and some excellent rock climbing. John Sykes, Secrets of the Notch has route descriptions but, I didn't post anything I did there after I started climbing it in 1982. Ed webster's guide book of 1986 also includes Indian Head. I prefer Ed's guide for details on Indian Head. This cliff has no sport routes and demanding traditional climbing because then difficulty to protect leading. Sometimes climbing without gear for the ascent. There remains little visiting to climb the face. No traffic noise from interstate 93.
We found an old bolt and pin on this cliff.
At the lower summit, southeast is a block with two (5.10) finger cracks that are excellent, 30-40ft. in height and excellent for gear. I don't remember how to get down from the block's top.
The cliff has it prow (namesake) that is the longest section to climb. West of that are several off width cracks and further down through uprooted woods is a broken rock section of cliff 50ft high to reach the summit.
Shortest access is the Indian Head Trail near the Resort on Route 3 W side, 1.4 miles N of exit 33 off I-93 (no fee parking), 1+ miles when this steep trail ascends right of the cliff, go left along the dirty side of the cliff to reach the clean granite section. Also access can be had in Franconia Notch at the Flume Visitor Center by the Mt. Pemigewasset trail and this is 2+ miles and goes directly to the summit.
Climbing Season For the WM: Franconia Notch area.
Weather station 7.9 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Indian Head Cliff on Mt. Pemigewasset
Red Power? variation Corner Arete 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
: WM: Franconia Notch
: Indian Head Cliff on Mt. Pe...
Longest climb on cliff. Climb bucket face holds up to old bolt at bulge (crux) to corner overhang old pin (crux). Mantle around overhang right and climb left facing narrow width corner. I placed a pin at the start to corner. The finish variation to Red Power enters the corner midway up and continues until breaks in rock 80ft. Then take arch back to weak flakes (5.8) to surmount final wall for a total pitch of 150ft. to the summit or do it in two belays. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
|Comments on Indian Head Cliff on Mt. Pemigewasset
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Sep 1, 2011
Here are the GPS coordinates for Mt Pemigewasset: 44.097941,-71.698937
If they are added to the are it will show up on the NH map, which would be nice.