|311 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11- [details]|
|FA: ||Riverside Bunch, 1967, FFA: Jon Lonne & Dennis Johnson, January 1977|
|Season: ||A cool day in the shade|
|Submitted By: ||john durr on Oct 29, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Southwest aspect of Lost Pencil - with Indian Give...
Indian Giver is a bold route up the southwest face of the beautiful Lost Pencil pillar. Thin, steep Joshua Tree face climbing that is very insecure. A fall getting to the second bolt could be disastrous.
Start near a shallow dihedral by reaching/jumping to a large face hold on the right arete of the corner. A hard mantle onto this hold is the true crux. More 5.11- face up and right gains another big jug. A terrifying 5.10c R/X mantle here to an obvious chossy jug and the second bolt. Head up and right to the arete and the third bolt on big features. Cross the arete on to easier runnout climbing and an awesome summit.
Kudos to the FFA team.
The beautiful west face of the Lost Pencil. This route starts up on the pedestal. This route gets lots of sun from late in the morning on.
Approach via an easy 20 foot long chimney hidden by boulders on the west face or a short, sharp 5.8 hand crack about 20 feet to the left (north).
To descend, rappel all the way back down from the top to below the approach pitch west with a single 60 meter rope, best to use the route Number Two's anchor for this. Watch your rope ends.
Three bomber bolts / two bolt rappel anchor - all new. Though weak, stick clipping the first bolt maybe a good idea. Bring a bail 'biner to leave on the first bolt.
|By C Miller|
Oct 29, 2010
Originally rated 5.10c.
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.11a PG13
Did this with Rob Raker way back when. Rob floated the lead of course. Cool summit and worth 3 of 5 stars just because the cool factor.
|By Mark J Gain|
Aug 20, 2012
Scared me... But I lived to tell about it :)