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Indian Creek is Cool, but...
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By jeff lebowski
May 1, 2014

Oh, it turned into a sport vs trad thing again. Riveting. Hold on while I go run and grab a pen and some paper.


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By Travis Haussener
May 2, 2014

Preface: I'll collectively say what everyone else had already said.

You'll find two type of people here, ones that are there to climb, and ones that are there for the overall experience and that's where the argument stems from. Whether one is the "trad mentality" and one is the "sport mentality" is another argument all together.

You do have people racing to the crag and then on the other end of the spectrum you have people bringing lawn chairs and coolers with them.

Sure you want a laid back experience but that party right on your tail might want to tick as many 11's in a day as possible. To that end bridging that relationship is sometimes difficult, when you just sent the seventh person in your party to top rope Annunaki or when you just ran up the trail to get to Chocolate Corner before the people in front of you.

Edit: So before you head down there keep an open mind, it's a great place and we shouldn't stop sharing it.


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
May 2, 2014

You can have Supercrack all to yourself in the middle of the busiest weekends if you're willing to stay past 5 or 6 PM depending on the season... Seems like everyone at the Creek is on the early train, people roll through camp at 7AM on their way to the crag before I've even felt the need to go take a piss. By 5PM everyone is pumped out or has run out of spray and heads back to camp aiming for an 8PM bed time...


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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
May 2, 2014

DisturbingThePeace wrote:
Funny, in my experience I've found trad climbers to be way more intense and less easy going than sport climbers. Only trad climbing have I ever been drawn into a race to the base to be the first one on the route, or had someone flip out that we were taking too long on an easy route that they wanted to run-up. I've found the "Pipe Scene" to be very chill and enjoyable in comparison, sure some wobblers may be thrown, but everyone is friendly and encouraging on the ground. A big part of it is the style of climbing, in general trad climbing takes longer, and it's a bigger deal who gets on the route first. But while most trad climbers I've met have been nice, most / all of my unpleasant experiences with people have been at trad areas. I've been turned away from the creek in the prime seasons, because it is just so damn crowded. I need to get better at that style so I can warm up on the 5.11's and miss most of the crowds, but for now I'm looking to climb the same warmups and classics as everyone else which adds to the difficulty and frustration. Maybe I'm just lucky to climb mostly in New Mexico, but all the major sport areas I've climbed Maple, RRG, Ten Sleep, people have been pretty chill. Only sport area that people weren't chill was EPC, but that is mostly traddies who wanted to climb multi-pitch with draws only.


+1. Seems like once sport got through the lycra anorexic phase of 20 years ago, to get respect, all that matters today in most sport environs is being positive and trying hard regardless of the route/number you are trying to RP.

Trad has a whole different set of unspoken rules based an appearances and a'hardpersoness' hierarchy now as outlined by the OP. Things have come full circle and the IC weekend Trad is now the pretentious hipster of the climbing world.


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By 5.samadhi
May 2, 2014
me

Sport better trad for fags with weak tendons


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
May 2, 2014
modern man

Travis Haussener wrote:
it's a great place and we shouldn't stop sharing it.


from CO arent you?

David Sahalie wrote:
Things have come full circle and the IC weekend Trad is now the pretentious hipster of the climbing world.


PBR on me bro, Heiny if u r anti GMO


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By Jamespio
May 2, 2014

mike1 wrote:
I get giddy when i see this stuff cuz I love a great troll and the col-rad one never gets old ! Make me wonder- How many Col-rads would be willing to not climb/ski in Utah if the Utards (capitalized ?) would stay out of Colorado ? I will cast the first vote for being willing to maintain my utard status but would like the option to negotiate with residents of Idaho, California (including surfing privileges, and Wyoming.


We're willing to grant City of Rocks/Castle Rock privileges, for Moab/IC/Zion. And how about Salmon River rafting for Wasatch skiing?

As to the Coloradans, at least they're not Texans, at least, not all of 'em are, yet.


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By lou
May 3, 2014
Whitney portal.....bony fingers

As climbing areas become crowded; we need to become more socially conscious and considerate. If you are out and alone on a remote Sierra climb; go for it, climb naked, bring all your dogs off leash ( and the barking, running over ropes, rummaging in your packs, poopin at the base of climbs ), bring your screaming 3 year old, blast your ipod, talk loud , scream, drop the f bomb all over! But in crowded areas its a nice gesture to be considerate of others, and their right to enjoy the crag in peace. I know its the selfie, look at me, be like me generation. We need to be just not thinkin of ourselves when climbing around alot of others!! A little consideration goes a long way! I bring my pup to the crag always and always on leash. Climbers give me the " oh shit loose dog " look then smile and say how nice it is to see a dog not running amok. I leash him up to a shady nook with water and his pad and he is in heaven. If you want to party to 2am; think about not doing it at Bridger Jacks camp on a busy weekend. Maybe take your group out to a remote area to rave all you want. Yes we all have the "right" to do as we please; and IC does not have paid and monitored campgrounds, yet!! Andrewprime you speak of inconsiderate folks makin noise by your camp; then you are inconsiderate with loose dogs? If we are all as nice as we can be and think of others... there may not seem to so many douchbags out there; and we may not be thought of as the same. Not saying your a noob... take this as friendly ... sometimes we all need to look inward

cheers.. lou


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By Clifton Santiago
May 3, 2014

Jingoism is alive and well. All y'all that live in the intermountain West and moved there to pursue a more open, liberated and semi-alternative lifestyle peppered with danger sports and all the associated commercial accoutrements to reinforce your identification with, or facsimilification of, a Patagonia catalogue spread, thou be best served not throwing stones.
There is a special kind of narcissism that pervades these types of threads- the idea that my pursuits or interests are somehow unique, and being unique, uniquely mine to define and moralize. The joke is you are the late-comer, the guy/gal trying to close the door behind you. The talent, foresight, spirit, and commitment required to even make your adopted thing a thing has already moved on. You are the johnny-come-lately sucking on the shriveled teat of a leftover adventure, yet can't stop yammering about your idealistic first encounter with canned fun, and how it's only gotten watered down in the six months since you got here.
There are 27 climbers FROM Boulder.
There are 12 climbers FROM SLC.
The rest are lucky people whose circumstance and/or inclination led them to realize participation in an intoxicating sport inspired them to identify with the surroundings of said intoxication, and idealize and tribalize it.


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By Stannis
May 3, 2014
For the night is dark and full of terrors.

The wolf does not care what the sheep think.

Enjoy the rocks, avoid the people.


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By NickO
From Utah
May 10, 2014

jeff lebowski wrote:
Oh, it turned into a sport vs trad thing again. Riveting. Hold on while I go run and grab a pen and some paper.


Lebowski - Nothing is fucked dude


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By Piton Ron
May 30, 2014

I talked about the creek with Jimmy Dunn this week who first climbed there in '71.


My own experience; I'm the one climber that didn't use the paved approach!

In 1981 I left Moab and drove up Kane Springs and over Hurrah Pass, then around Hatch Point and continued south to the creek.
I checked it out after making the FA of a dome by Elephant Hill.

By then I had been desert climbing for many years and realized that this area, with paved access, would be the guinea pig for soft rock areas.
I knew plenty of Wingate canyons with crack climbing just as good, but no road.

So,... a third of a century later I returned this very month.

The people were friendly enough, but it is obvious that we are loving the place to death. We need rap chains and better trails, but I have no solutions to the obvious crack wear.

Good thing there are so many other Wingate areas,..


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By Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
May 31, 2014
Flatirons

5.samadhi wrote:
Sport better trad for fags with weak tendons


Weak tendons maybe but if you wanna climb 5.8 in the mountains your stabilizer muscles better be JACKED


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By Elliott Crooks
May 31, 2014

There are literally a couple of hundred miles of Wingate sandstone out there, all with nice climbable cracks: you just have to be willing to do the approaches. Indian Creek is popular because it's great climbing & short approaches. Generalizing, rock jocks don't do well with other than short approaches. Done some great FAs with long/obscure approaches.


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By Phil Esra
May 31, 2014

My first decade of outdoor climbing was all trad, all the time. In the last 2 years I've been sport climbing more often than not. I harbor lots of stereotypes about all kinds of climbers and people, and I enjoy how often I'm wrong. The one constant is that the more crowded the routes, and the larger the groups, the more likely somebody's going to go away unhappy. And young guys who have, say, x months of climbing experience, and are in a large group that includes women, do tend to spray loud. It's a mating thing.


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
May 31, 2014
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

"SO YOU GET TO THIS GNARLY UNDERCLING STANCE, AND LIKE, SPREAD OUT SUUUPER WIDE, AND STICK THIS KINDA SLOPEY GASTON THING WITH YOUR RIGHT, AND REALLY PERCH ON YOUR LEFT FOOT LIKE THIS, AND SLOWLY MOVE YOUR HIPS OVER WHILE YOU STAND UP AND INTO THIS DESPERATE FINGER LOCK WITH YOUR LEFT. DUDE IT'S SO AWESOME. OH MAN, YOU GOTTA TRY IT.."


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By Phil Esra
May 31, 2014

A couple weeks ago I scrambled to the top of a 30' crag, preparing to drop a TR on a hard route and hang some draws on it. I could not see my partner at the base, but the acoustics were good. In an "indoor" voice I established vocal contact with him and told him I was dropping the rope. He misjudged the angle of the route and where he was standing, and he let himself get clobbered by 50+m of rope--a direct hit.

A minute later I told him more junk was coming, and gently suggested he get his dumb ass out of the way. I wadded up my puffy in the rope bag and tossed it down. It hit "flat" on a flat rock surface, the equivalent of a belly flop, and made a surprisingly loud noise. A young female climber on a nearby 5.9 was spooked by the noise--to her, it sounded like it might be a body. Her bro partner loudly explained to her that I had already dropped a rope on my partner without warning, so who knows WTF is going on over there. I'm sure she was reassured by the expert explanation.


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By 5.samadhi
May 31, 2014
me

Ryan Watts wrote:
Weak tendons maybe but if you wanna climb 5.8 in the mountains your stabilizer muscles better be JACKED

Is that the 11 thousand foot gnar youre talking about or some weak shit?


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By Ted Angus
May 31, 2014

Clifton Santiago wrote:
Jingoism is alive and well. All y'all that live in the intermountain West and moved there to pursue a more open, liberated and semi-alternative lifestyle peppered with danger sports and all the associated commercial accoutrements to reinforce your identification with, or facsimilification of, a Patagonia catalogue spread, thou be best served not throwing stones. There is a special kind of narcissism that pervades these types of threads- the idea that my pursuits or interests are somehow unique, and being unique, uniquely mine to define and moralize. The joke is you are the late-comer, the guy/gal trying to close the door behind you. The talent, foresight, spirit, and commitment required to even make your adopted thing a thing has already moved on. You are the johnny-come-lately sucking on the shriveled teat of a leftover adventure, yet can't stop yammering about your idealistic first encounter with canned fun, and how it's only gotten watered down in the six months since you got here. There are 27 climbers FROM Boulder. There are 12 climbers FROM SLC. The rest are lucky people whose circumstance and/or inclination led them to realize participation in an intoxicating sport inspired them to identify with the surroundings of said intoxication, and idealize and tribalize it.


nailed it.


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By Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
May 31, 2014
Flatirons

5.samadhi wrote:
Is that the 11 thousand foot gnar youre talking about or some weak shit?


I'm talking the heinous gnar bro. 11k WITH a 50-60lb pack.

What do I need 50lbs of gear for you ask?

Hardman shit that's what: triple rack of tricams, hexes to #20...yeah, bet you can feel those stabilizers getting flash pumped already.


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