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Indian Creek

Routes Sorted
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Blood on the Nuts T 
Country Lovin T 
Crack Attack T 
Fibrulator T 
Gizmo T 
Jim's Dihedral T 
Slimy Creatures T 

Indian Creek  Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 9,504
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Jason Halladay, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chad Wagner on Apr 13, 2009

52° | 41°

55° | 43°

69° | 49°

67° | 42°

67° | 44°

71° | 51°
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me on lead almost to the top of crack attack, Ed H...


Like its namesake in Utah, Indian Creek contains an abundance of quality crack lines. But the highlight of this crag are the massive offwidth roofs up to 20 feet-literly feet. But oddly enough the name meens more to this crag than any other in the Red, and its the line Crack Attack, a Classic that looks like it should be in Utah. The wall has a number of buttresses which create different aspects and rock characteristics that directly affect route quality.

Getting There 

Drive down Forest Service Road 9B 2.9 miles to a concrete dam/bridge. Continue 0.6 miles where the road makes a curve to the left with wood pylons on the outside of the turn. Park in the campsite ahead or off the side of the road. Walk back to the pylons and locate a small trail that you'll follow strait back towards a campsight until you find an old logging road that cuts uphill left. Hike the old road for 150 feet and head uphill right to a ridge and turn right uphill on th ridge until you see a small pinnacle and your there.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.3 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Indian Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Indian Creek :
Slimy Creatures   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Crack Attack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Jim's Dihedral   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Fibrulator   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Indian Creek

Featured Route For Indian Creek
Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Cushman climbing Jim's Dihedral

Jim's Dihedral 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  KY : Red River Gorge : Indian Creek
Climb the obvious corner through a short dirty section at the bottom. Negotiate through the wide start into the handcrack above and puzzle through the interesting finish to top out....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Comments on Indian Creek Add Comment
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By Chad Wagner
Sep 11, 2014
Info provided taken from guidebook. Thanks Ray! Sorry to rip the info.
By CCase
Sep 5, 2016
First... w/ 9b re-opening, the guidebook mileage is wrong as things have changed back there and the road ends much earlier then before the renovation. That said, add aat least an additional 10-15 minutes on all the approaches launching from the new parking area for Purple Valley (ie. the end of the road).

Next, Indian Creek... from the "new" Purple Valley parking area you have to walk across the stream and continue down the obvious road for about 7-10 minutes. It is very overgrown, but on the right you will see two metal/wood pylons w/ small rock cairns on top. If you hit "T" intersection w/ the stream, you have went too far (about 15 minute walk). Again, hard to see in the brush... someone should put a sign for the climbing community, but that is the start of the approach trail for Indian Creek.

After that is a complete crap shoot... Partner and I lost a full day and a half trying to find this area and essentially bushwhacked for hours. We found rock back there, but it definitely wasn't what we were looking for (some definite potential though - lol)...

Can a local who need to bank some good "juju" and knows where they are going, pls provide explicit step-by-step instructions w/ tangible geographic markers for getting to this area from the approach trail described above and spare the rest of the trad climbing community the misery that everyone has to suffer finding this crag? For example, do you ever cross the intial drainage at the end of the short grassy path or are you always keeping it to your right? There is another trail that heads left and as you are heading up that... I am prety sure it forks. Do you stay left or right? Once you hit the area where the ground flattens out do you veer left or right?

Soo many questions and soo few answers and any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, WTF is a "logging road" mentioned multiple times in the guidebook, because that must have a completely different meaning in KY. From where I am from they are pretty obvious... In KY it looks like it means a barely visible completely overgrown (maybe even never a trail) trail that constantly makes you question if it is even a trail at all - lol.

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