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Indian Cove

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Indian Cove  


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Elevation: 3,000'
Location: 34.0938, -116.1566 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 766,652
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 20, 2002
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Rainbow in Indian Cove right after the rain.

Description 

Indian Cove is a stand-alone section of the park, located to the north of the main park and around 1000 feet lower in elevation. This, plus the fact that it is relatively sheltered, make it a good destination on cold winter days. Additionally, unlike the main park, the campsites in Indian Cove can be reserved and cost (as of Jan 2011 $15/night) -- on the other hand, there's no park entrance fee.

The rock tends to be slightly grainier than some of the other popular areas (Lost Horse, Real Hidden Valley), and many of the routes are a bit shorter. Nonetheless, there's some great climbing here, probably close to a thousand routes from 5.0 all the way up, and as a bonus most of it is within a hundred yards or so of the road, so the approaches are practically non-existent. A few less populated crags lie up on the slope of the Wonderland of Rocks (the south side of IC) or up Rattlesnake Canyon in the Wonderland.

Certain formations at Indian Cove can be overrun with gang-ropers (Feudal Wall, Short Wall, Billboard Buttress, Pixie Rock), so plan accordingly. Other great areas to check out include Moosedog Tower, Dos Equis Wall, Corral Wall, Wonder Bluffs, and more that I don't have time to list here. One general word of warning: the further north you get, the grainier and more crumbly the rocks tend to get. Grain Central Station has that name for a reason, and although Morbid Mound is relatively popular, I can't figure out why.

Campground Map as provided by the park (some editing for clarity)
Campground Map as provided by the park (some editing for clarity)

Getting There 

Follow the 29 Palms Highway past the entrance to the main park in the town of Joshua Tree. The entrance to Indian Cove is between the towns of Joshua Tree and Twentynine Palms. Keep a look out for Indian Cove Road, on the right side of the highway. If you're approaching from the west, look for a Del Taco billboard to mark the spot.

Turn south on Indian Cove Road and head straight into the park. After a couple of miles, you'll pass a small ranger station, and after another mile or so, you're there.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.3 miles from here

585 Total Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',53],['2 Stars',199],['1 Star',299],['Bomb',9]
['<=5.6',85],['5.7',60],['5.8',97],['5.9',75],['5.10',177],['5.11',64],['5.12',19],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Indian Cove:
I Love my Marine   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Campfire Crag : Campfire Crag - South Face
Who's First   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Indian Cove Campground : Pixie Rock
200 Motels   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress
Taken for Granite   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress
We Dive At Dawn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress
El Chivo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Indian Cove Campground : The Bilbo Buttresses
Direct South Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower
Gozer the Gozerian   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Indian Cove Campground : Apparition Rock
Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Indian Cove Campground : Pixie Rock
Alien Head   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Rattlesnake Wash Hillside : Alien Head Area
Firewater Chimney   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Valley of Kings : The Arrowhead
Party in the Desert   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Corral Wall : Corral Wall - Left Side
Right V Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Short Wall : Short Wall - Left Side
Monaco   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Feudal Wall : Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Panama Red   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle
Powered by Old English   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   The Valley of Kings : The Lynch Crag
Eureka!   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress
Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 35'   Rattlesnake Canyon : Somewhere n00b
The Last Stand   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Valley of Kings : The Arrowhead
South of Heaven   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Valley of Kings : Slatanic Area
Browse More Classics in Indian Cove

Featured Route For Indian Cove
Making the crux transition from the seam to the vetical slab / face. Photo by Holden Harris.

The Last Stand 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Arrowhead
This fine face route lies on the outside face of the Arrowhead flake. Begin on the right side of the face where a thin seam/crack heads up the face to about 1/2 height. Climb the face and seam/crack past 5 bolts (10c/d), move left and up on ultra thin face past the 6th bolt (12a) which leads to easier (10+/11-) but sustained climbing to a 2 bolt anchor (also used by Firewater Chimney). 90 foot lower/off and/or rappel. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Indian Cove Slideshow Add Photo
Desert Iguana. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Desert Iguana. Photo by Blitzo.
Rainbow in Indian Cove right after the rain.
Rainbow in Indian Cove right after the rain.
Clouds and Rays at Indian Cove. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Clouds and Rays at Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Morning Sun from Indian Cove Site 90 looking west, near Moosedog Tower
Morning Sun from Indian Cove Site 90 looking west,...
Desert Tortoise. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Desert Tortoise. Photo by Blitzo.
Rattlesnakes are well camouflaged. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Rattlesnakes are well camouflaged. Photo by Blitzo...
A nice fat chuckwalla pumping in the sun.
A nice fat chuckwalla pumping in the sun.
Watch where you put your hands. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Watch where you put your hands. Photo by Blitzo.
Desert Tortoise, found crossing the main road into Indian Cove.
Desert Tortoise, found crossing the main road into...
Indian Cove campground.
Indian Cove campground.
Billboard outside Indian Cove. Be sure to look your best at the crags!
Billboard outside Indian Cove. Be sure to look you...
Thunderhead-Indian Cove. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Thunderhead-Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Pano of Indian Cove camp ground. Moose Dog Tower is easily seen on the left.
Pano of Indian Cove camp ground. Moose Dog Tower i...
Campground Map as provided by the park (some editing for clarity)
BETA PHOTO: Campground Map as provided by the park (some editi...
Hedgehog cactus in bloom. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Hedgehog cactus in bloom. Photo by Blitzo.
Some new route in Indian Cove. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Some new route in Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Indian Cove-snow. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Indian Cove-snow. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock and yucca. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Rock and yucca. Photo by Blitzo.
Indian Cove Campground
Indian Cove Campground
Indian Cove-Spring Storm. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Indian Cove-Spring Storm. Photo by Blitzo.
<a href='/v/willit-pillar/105720924'>Willit Pillar</a>
BETA PHOTO: Willit Pillar
Desert floor in bloom-Indian Cove. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Desert floor in bloom-Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo...
The new market at Indian Cove. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
The new market at Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Walking Stick, photographed in Group Campsite 1, Indian Cove.
Walking Stick, photographed in Group Campsite 1, I...

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Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Indian Cove Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2010
Indian Cove is a great place to hang out and do some toprope climbing during bad weather elsewhere in the Park. Short Wall has some fun topropes or 3rd class for getting used to the rock as a noob visitor, but can also wear down the fingertips in a very short time. The rock is particularly grainy and abrasive. Have fun sparingly here.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 15, 2011
About 9 miles from the west entrance road to Indian Cove Road. Del Taco sign is still standing proud.