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Indian Bluffs

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Indian Bluffs  


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Elevation: 900'
Location: 42.2205, -91.0715 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,473
Administrators: Bill McKirgan, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: moss1956 on Oct 8, 2008
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Closed north of Chimney Rock. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Bolted limestone, it is a long walk to the rock, but there are some really nice climbs.

If you have information with respect to closures please add your comments.

The most sensitive areas are the north east faces. Some climbs have been established in a few of these places prior to the closures, and we should respect the closure until land managers have had time to fully assess the possible impacts. This has been an important issue for a number of years, and the local climbing community has respected all closures.

iowaclimberscoalition.webs.com...

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algific_...

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iowa_Ple...

Getting There 

Heading North on 151 out of Monticello Iowa, turn right on Richmond, take Richmond Road till it tees out on Butterfield Road, and turn right.

Stick with Butterfield Road where you have to turn right at the four way stop to stay on Butterfield and follow it down into the park.

There are two parking lots, one right after you enter the park and one down by the river. The top parking lot is closer to most of the bolted climbs. This parking lot has the remains of a large burnt stump in the middle.

The lower parking area is spread out. This is a good place to access routes located closer to the river. You will often see RV campers here.


Climbing Season



Weather station 5.2 miles from here

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',12],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Indian Bluffs:
Spearhead   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 25'   Boneless Chicken Ranch
Flavor Blasted Spermacide   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 45'   Boneless Chicken Ranch
C N Red   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Mother Wall
Browse More Classics in Indian Bluffs

Featured Route For Indian Bluffs
Between the Sheets

Between the Sheets 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  IA : Indian Bluffs : Boneless Chicken Ranch
Somewhat hidden holds at one point....[more]   Browse More Classics in IA

Photos of Indian Bluffs Slideshow Add Photo
detail scan of local topo map
detail scan of local topo map
Jonny on unknown route.  Rating, maybe 5.8, locati...
Jonny on unknown route. Rating, maybe 5.8, locati...
Indian Bluffs
Indian Bluffs
Dustin working towards the overhang.  No idea wher...
Dustin working towards the overhang. No idea wher...
Heaven in fall
Heaven in fall
Natural arch near Mother Wall
Natural arch near Mother Wall
Dustin again, another unknown wall name
Dustin again, another unknown wall name
it's just Iowa
it's just Iowa

Comments on Indian Bluffs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Langlois
From: NYC
Nov 18, 2008
Hey glad to see more Iowa stuff is going up on MP. Do you have better directions to these places? Are some of these climbs on private land?
By Jim H
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 12, 2008
Hey, could you remember to include the nearest city in your directions. Those of us who are not locals would really appreciate it
By moss1956
Feb 27, 2009
Jim H,
I am not sure what you mean, unless you mean to say that Monticello
is not a city.
Moss
By crimpandpeel
Jun 9, 2009
If you do find this park, a good idea is to try and get a guide of some sort or a local to show you the routes to get on and ones not to. there are some pretty fun climbing routes here and you should not have any issues with routes on private land here, but there are routes on PRIVATE land in Iowa. If you happen upon this place, and you will know you are not where you should be, best to turn around and go back the way you came. there are draws hanging on some routes and are not free for the taking-remember it's private property and if caught climbing, you will be walked off the property and into the open arms of the law.

so get a guide book and enjoy the climbing we really need to protect
By Kaner
From: Eagle
Jun 11, 2009
Hi crimpandpeel,
Where would one find a guidebook for Indian Bluffs?
Do you live in the area? I'm in Dubuque and would like to see more of Indian Bluffs. Very cool area and I've only seen maybe 1/2 of the routes. I hear there's 30+.
Thanks
By Jon Lauters
From: Boulder, Co
Jul 1, 2009
Hey Ryan,

There is an outdated general guidebook for Eastern Iowa. I have a copy/plus some other material on the area you can have if you like. I'm not sure how useful the guide is, as by the time I came across it, I knew my way around most the places in Iowa. I know IB pretty well, even crimpandpeel's super cool Blue Groove Wall. Sadly I don't have a whole lot of time left in Iowa before I move. IB is much nicer in the fall when the veg dies. There is hunting allowed on the land as well, so during hunting season be sure to wear bright colors - just to be safe.

There are some routes under voluntary closure which should not be climbed (Saving Grace, Wedding Bells, Louise)
By crimpandpeel
Nov 13, 2010
hey this comment goes out to the tool of a climber(s) having a fire at Hoot Bluff right by the wall where packs go and leaving a mess there, nice way to leave no trace, how about low key and hand warmers next time.
By L.Walton
From: Madison, WI
Feb 17, 2012
I wasn't around in 2010, but I was in 2011. I know I inadvertently messed up a bunch of hunter's weekend by camping with my dog (and probably in a bad location and having a fire). Sorry, I wasn't familiar with public land etiquette and hadn't read this forum before going. I just wanted to apologize to all of the hunters out there. Us climbers don't want to piss you off and we want to be able to share the land, if you see us messing up please let us know what we're doing wrong - what's common sense to you might not be for us, but we're more than willing to learn.
By Dan Roberts
From: Eastern Iowa
May 1, 2013
Could anyone shed some light on the Mother wall? A lot of unmentioned routes there. The route to the left of the arch was fun and would like a bit of info of what else there is to have fun with. Does the crack on Mother Wall go?
By crimpandpeel
May 22, 2013
Dan- that route is a pile by Iowa standards, a do it once and never again, there are quite a few really good climbs at I.B., trad as well- yes the crack has been done, I'm sure every crack out there has been done atleast once. Move to the right on MotherWall past the table rock and look up at a 80' party, C-N-Red 11c, super fun and there are 4 more to the right on a flanking wall, skip the first 2 and climb thwe other 2 on the right side of a crack, fun as well, I suggest you buy a guide book for the area or find a local to show you the best of the area- but i would get a book anyway. Enjoy