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Bit of snow on a blustery day in May.
This route is located on the second bolted buttress uphill on the trail at Jurassic Park, located on the left hand side of the trail. This route climbs the leftmost bolted rib/arete of the bunch of routes on this wall. The climbing is very straightforward following the ridge to the anchor. A nice warmup and good lead for beginners, being well bolted and fairly easy. This route [formerly shared] anchors with the next route uphill 'Middle Toe'. The rock is quite clean and moves are fairly fun - 2 stars. You will want a 60m rope as you may have to downclimb with a 50m. Cheers.
9 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.
This route is located on the second bolted buttress uphill on the trail at Jurassic Park, located on the left hand side of the trail. It is the leftmost route on the eastern face of this rock.
BETA PHOTO: From the base.
BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations.
Robbie on a cold day in Feb. '07.
Chris on-sight leading the route.
Blake on Index Toe.
|By Rick Thompson|
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jan 30, 2002
I believe the correct spelling is TOE, not tow. Possibly the hardest "so-called" 5.8 in the entire Lump Ridge Area. I've seen a rather respectable line up of climbers hanging all over this crux. More like 10a, or REAL old fashioned 9+. FA: Douglas Snively & Bernard Gillett, 1996.
|By Michael Walker|
From: Loveland, CO
May 28, 2002
Pheeew. Thought I was just plain WEAK until I read Rick's comments. Yes indeed, this one's hard for 5.8 - I hung on this baby for a while and had to lower to let my partner take a stab.
It's really not that *Hard*, but until I saw the right sequence I was S-T-U-C-K.
|By Bruce Hildenbrand|
May 23, 2003
This climb is indeed 5.8 you just need some route finding skills to locate the correct holds. Fun! Please do not pass this one by because of claims of a sandbag. It's not.
Jun 2, 2003
I would say that this climb is definitely 5.8 - but it is kind of tricky at the crux... not hard though... also - we ran out of rope so we had to do some creative bouldering/downclimbing/sketchy rope trickery. pretty much everything here requires a full 60 m. all of the climbs downslope from this one were much better... and the 9 next to this one looked better too although i didn't get a chance to hop on it
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 2, 2003
The first part is a respectable, fun arete but the crux is no way 5.8. From to crux bolt to the next would be hairy for a 5.8 leader. The rest of the climb seemed like 5.6 on out sections. The view at the anchors made all the cursing at the crux worth while. If you top rope, there is lots of drag. :)
Mar 26, 2004
A little harder than 5.8, I think.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2006
Fun route with a lot of required smearing and faith in friction- tough on a hot day in the sun. It stays sunny most of the day, until late afternoon.
|By Scott Edlin|
From: boulder, co
Jun 25, 2006
Very fun and long, not an easy lead for 5.8 leaders, consecutive insecure and committing sequency moves at the crux. A bit runout but easy at the top. The first bolt and the bolt below the crux have spinning hangers.
|By Debbie Vischer|
May 12, 2008
Fun route for sure. Definitely need to trust your feet on this one as the hands are thin at the crux (bolt 6?). Also, a 60m rope is a must, esp if you pass the achors and extend to the anchors of the adjacent routes.
|By Brendan Leonard|
From: Denver, Hollarado
Jun 15, 2008
This route has its own anchors -- no longer shares anchors with Middle Toe, as once noted in the route description.
|By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett|
Jul 1, 2008
Interesting selection of comments.
After leading this again last weekend, I think I see what's going on.
The route has a 5.8 crux move, but an irritating 5.9 stretch to clip the bolt that protects this move. This bolt (#7?) is placed too far right, and too high. Move this bolt down and left about a foot or so, and the route could be an enjoyable 5.8 lead, and the comments on this fine route would be more uniformly favorable.
|By Julius Beres|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2008
Just don't clip that bolt before making the move. I'm a shorter climber and had no shot of making that clip until after making the move (the last bolt isn't much further down, so the fall wouldn't be bad). It is a rather committing, balance move, but aside from that the rest of the climb is rather mellow. After making the step, I wouldn't say it was actually harder than 5.8, but mentally it might seem harder since you are making a high step onto a small foothold without very good hands.
I would say this is definitely not 5.9... it is no where near as hard as Edge of Time(5.9). I would say it is also substantially easier than Joint Venture (which also gets a 5.8 rating)
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 5, 2008
Fun! If you're checking out the bolts from the bottom and it seems run out between the second and third bolts, have no fear -- there's a bolt between that you can't see from the ground.
PS, bolt number 4 jiggles a little. We didn't have a wrench with us to snug it up, sorry.
|By Zac Church|
May 28, 2010
#7 bolt is loose. Someone bring a wrench next time up.
|By Matty H|
Apr 29, 2012
Hey, does anyone know if the flaring crack to the left of this route is an established line? I did the crack on trad lead last summer, and can't find anything about it.
|By Brian Wright|
From: Glenwood Springs, Co
Jul 27, 2012
The move at the crux is quite tricky. I fell here (damn!). I saw several people lead other 5.9s in the area and struggle mightily here. I definitely found this harder than Middle Toe to the right. I would call it 5.7 with a 5.9 move.
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 14, 2012
The leader doing this route before us (while we were on Middle Toe) also struggled at the crux and took a couple falls; he thought the crux was harder than Middle Toe's crux. I tried it next and struggled at the crux with very balancy moves trying to hang on with high, thin holds, hugging the arete to stay on, thinking it was surely harder than 5.8. Then my wife (who is shorter than I), cruises up. Turns out I missed a move (hint: sidepull) I had to try it again and sure enough, it suddenly felt like 5.8 at the crux. Too often I think a pitch is harder than advertised, only to find out later that I was making it harder than it really is because I missed a hold. Not as sustained as Middle Toe, but certainly a fun route!