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Index by FA Route T 

Index by FA Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mel Griffiths, H.L. McClintock, Frank McClintock. Sept. 1934
Season: Spring/Summer/Fall
Page Views: 860
Submitted By: Peter Blank on Aug 12, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Base of Index tower complex. Notice ledge with @P...

Description 

From the bottom of the tower, climb 7 feet to a ledge that accesses a less than vertical handcrack (5.5, 15 feet, #3 Camalot). Belay off boulders just above the crack. Hop 50 feet around the base of the first tower and either rappel or downclimb (5.2, 30 feet) a gully to the east between towers 1 and 2. Set up a belay with medium stoppers. Climb easy fingers to hands to blocks to top of second tower (5.6, 60 feet) and belay off a slung boulder with a relic piton. Rappel to saddle between tower 2 and Index off a slung block (30 feet). The first 25 feet of Index are about 5.6ish and easy to protect. Enter a small alcove and contemplate the the 25 feet of 5.9ish vertical #5+ Camalot OW above. Climb it to the fantastic and elusive summit. The rock is perfect.

Two pitons off the backside act as summit anchors or you could easily sling one of the summit boulders. Do a single rappel off the backside pitons to the saddle. Another rappel from the saddle off pitons to a large grassy ledge on the west side. A final rappel off a sturdy rock pinch will get you back to your packs.


Protection 

A single set of Camalots #0.3-#3.
1-3 #5 Camalots for the upper OW.
Mid-sized stoppers.
1 set of Gear4Rocks plastic stoppers.
.380 Kel Tec?

Bigbro's work for the OW, but stick with #2s and 3s. #4s do not fit and are useless. We used a 100 foot Mammut Serenity and a 100 foot tag line for rappels. All green webbing is new as of 8/11.



Photos of Index by FA Route Slideshow Add Photo
Just after #3 hand crack below first tower (visible).
BETA PHOTO: Just after #3 hand crack below first tower (...
Lower bit of summit block.  Setting up a belay of piton, medium stopper, red C3.
Lower bit of summit block. Setting up a belay of ...
Upper section of Tower 2.  From here, rappel down the gully on left to the base of finger crack.
BETA PHOTO: Upper section of Tower 2. From here, rappel down ...
Upper bit of Index.
BETA PHOTO: Upper bit of Index.
Nearing top of Tower 2.  Climb through easy fingers to hands.
BETA PHOTO: Nearing top of Tower 2. Climb through easy finger...
You can spot the W even in the star light.  Head up chute to left.  Does not look this obvious from lower down.
You can spot the W even in the star light. Head u...
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