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Rock Island I
Routes Sorted
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Destroyer TR 
Independent T 
Unknown T 
Unknown II aka The Broken Wing TR 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: a drytooling climber?
Page Views: 1,270
Submitted By: Chris O'Connor on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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  • Description 

    Start up the blocky beginning and get situated in the right-facing dihedral. Cruise up staying left of the headwall and traversing right to gain the two bolt anchor.


    This is on the north-facing section of the rock, near the bridge. It is to the left of Destroyer.


    Standard rack, small cams are best.

    Comments on Independent Add Comment
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    By Caleb Phillips
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 9, 2007
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    I did a couple laps of this with a friend on a freakishly warm day in the middle of December. We setup a top-rope using the bolts. After the dihedral, there is a traverse right on the "bridge" which feels a little exposed even on a top-rope. After that, we finished the route up the nose to the bolts. Just before the end, you can traverse a little left to some nice granite for a finish that requires some reachy moves to slopers - it's little variations like this which have me giving the route a 5.8-. On the second lap, I tried to climb straight up from the top of the dihedral - this redder rock is pretty crumbly and dirty and I slipped off a few moves in - I don't recommend this variation. Also, beware of swinging around on the top-rope. In hind-sight, I might have used a directional.
    By RickV85
    From: Erie, CO
    Oct 25, 2013
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Fun route that makes you look for holds a little. Top roped it, so I wasn't looking for gear placement. I'd say the first half would be easy to protect and the second half not as easy especially the last moves. Easy to start with a few mantle moves, but it's mostly cracks. The last few moves are a bit chossy and vertical, and I'd say this is the crux. Luckily, the BC path was still closed due to the flood. You belay from almost middle of the path where there is typically a lot of traffic, so expect gawkers. There is one very short steep section section on the hike up to the anchors to set a top rope, but you don't necessarily need to rappel back down it. I only found one bolt but apparently, as stated below, there are 2 somewhere down there but not in position for this route. I didn't see them on the way up either. I used a 30ft sling to back up the single bolt and get the master point over the edge.
    By Detrick Snyder
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 26, 2013

    Hey Rick, I saw you guys on this the other day when I was coming down from the Second Buttress. The two bolts mentioned are there, they are about 5ft down and to the right of the poorly placed bolt you speak of, but it's a little hairy accessing them; I think the bolt up higher is meant for safely accessing the two-bolt anchor. In any case, they don't provide a good position for the route either.

    On another note, anybody know of the name and grade of the straight up route with a chalk tick on it? Seemed 5.12 to me....

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