|Type:||Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 [details]|
|FA:||Mike Dudley & Fletcher Smith, 1970|
|Submitted By:||Dan Mottinger on Nov 11, 2001|
|Comments on Independence Chimney||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Mottinger
Nov 12, 2001
This is the best chimney route I've ever done--the full body chimneying mixed with finger jamming on P3 is rather interesting.
On P1, it may be possible to free climb this around 5.11ish, but watch out for the flexing flake! Pro is decent enough, but may be difficult to place. On P2, a #4 Camalot protects the opening, crux moves--a #3 Friend can be placed a little higher. The pitch is a little runout if you don't have a #5 Camalot, but easier than the initial OW. A No. 5 might have been useful for the start of P3 also since it's only protected by a drilled angle low. My suggestion: if you're comfortable in 5.8 terrain, leave the cams larger than #4 Camalot at home.
A tip for the unprotected chimney pitch: the leader must 'solo' this section, but the second can be protected by a directional stopper at the top of the chimney.
Finally, a tip for finishing up on Otto's route--you only need about 5 QDs and a few runners (and a 1.5-2 tricam if you feel like it) for the last two pitches. Thus, you can leave the rest of your rack at the tunnel of time ledge and get it on the rap back down.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 9, 2002
|The 2 pin belay at the top of the 3rd pitch is a semi-hanging, uncomfortable stop. Be ready for the cramp.|
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 14, 2003
|Leave the #4.5 and 5 Camalots at home. A lighter alternative for a big piece for the off-width section on P2 might be a large big bro. But really, nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot is needed. There are lots of opportunities for TCU/Alien (up to red) placements in the finger crack that runs to the side of the chimney. The rock is quite solid here and doubles of these smaller units are nice. RPs/HB offsets are useful for the aid section. Some of the rock quality is lousy here so skip the top stepping and sew this up. The two pin anchor at the end of P3 is really only one decent pin and a partially driven old ring angle that I wouldn't trust for a second. Just tie off and clip these as pro and finish up that last unprotected section to the top of the chimney. This is a safer and infinitely more comfortable alternative than belaying here. We had 60m ropes, but still had a good amount of rope left doing it that way, so I think it might work with 50s too. You could probably link P1 and P2 if you can handle the rope drag. Linking P3 and P4 is highly recommended. Great route, but harder than it looked.|
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 28, 2009
I freed the first pitch with Craig Weinhold last week for the FFA. I felt it was probably 11c, he thought 11d. Safe gear and pretty straightforward, though it will get much harder if/when the flexing jug comes off. The rest of the route is fun and casual with no climbing harder than 5.8.
A note about gear, an old #4 Camalot is best. The new #4 works, but isn't as secure. Also, not really a need for any gear larger than that. You could place it on P2 if you didn't feel comfortable (after that pitches crux), but it's not going to do much for you on the higher pitches.