This is a fun mixed line with a good bit of variety. The start has some questionable rock, but this portion is bolt protected. A great lead for a budding trad leader. Get some good practice placing a variety of gear.
Start from a boulder at a steep bulge. Step up through some easy ledges to the bolt. Clip the bolt and get under the slightly awkward mini roof (crux). Start plugging pro in the crack that leads up and right through some ledges. Follow the crack further up and right until it turns left. Follow the groove/crack to an easy slab section to the two bolt anchor.
From the approach trail turn left when you meet the base of the wall. Head left for about 50'. Right before you duck under to head to the Tradisfaction area the climb starts. There is a tag that also marks the climb. Just left of Walk the Line and Pyscho Billy.
Single rack, nuts, tricams, many long runners for the gear above. A single bolt protects the opening moves. Two bolt anchor to rappel. Rappel using a 60m rope.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
a stick clip is a good idea if you want to lead this. there's an iffy cam placement below the bolt, but the rock is spooky and the landing would be horrible.
Oct 22, 2013
A stick clip isn't a bad idea, but if you've done any sport climbing at all the crux move is very casual- huge jugs the whole way. Once you get up over the roof, there are awesome cracks for a while until they flare out near the top. View from up there is great!