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The Stadium
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Areterection S 
Ascentuality T,S 
Augenblick S 
Cheetah S 
ED T 
Indecision T 
Kentucky Waterfall T 
Melancholy Mechanics S 
No Bones About It T 
Scrumbulglazer S 
Tradisfaction T 
Treetop Terror T,S 
Tug-O-War S 
Walk the Line T 

Indecision 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Griffiths, Jeff Smith, Ken Thompson, 2004
Season: Any
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on May 10, 2011

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Mary at the steep bulgy start of Indecision.

Description 

This is a fun mixed line with a good bit of variety. The start has some questionable rock, but this portion is bolt protected. A great lead for a budding trad leader. Get some good practice placing a variety of gear.

Start from a boulder at a steep bulge. Step up through some easy ledges to the bolt. Clip the bolt and get under the slightly awkward mini roof (crux). Start plugging pro in the crack that leads up and right through some ledges. Follow the crack further up and right until it turns left. Follow the groove/crack to an easy slab section to the two bolt anchor.


Location 

From the approach trail turn left when you meet the base of the wall. Head left for about 50'. Right before you duck under to head to the Tradisfaction area the climb starts. There is a tag that also marks the climb. Just left of Walk the Line and Pyscho Billy.


Protection 

Single rack, nuts, tricams, many long runners for the gear above. A single bolt protects the opening moves. Two bolt anchor to rappel. Rappel using a 60m rope.



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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

a stick clip is a good idea if you want to lead this. there's an iffy cam placement below the bolt, but the rock is spooky and the landing would be horrible.

By michaeltarne
Oct 22, 2013

A stick clip isn't a bad idea, but if you've done any sport climbing at all the crux move is very casual- huge jugs the whole way. Once you get up over the roof, there are awesome cracks for a while until they flare out near the top. View from up there is great!