||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Nathan Brown, FFA with help from Eddie Medina and Lee Carter|
|Season: ||fall, winter, spring|
|Page Views: ||2,446|
|Submitted By: ||nbrown on Dec 7, 2007|
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Following the second pitch - weird but excellent ...
This is a high quality route with your typical weird Table Rock style of climbing. It is by far my personal favorite route at Table Rock, and would get more traffic if it were at a different cliff. There are lots of sidepulls and weird movements involved, as well as a pretty clever rest if you can find it. It is a safe but intimidating route.
P-1 Climb the "MM" dihedral about 30' up to a large stopper and a traverse right. Move out right then up the sparsly protected face (only 5.7) on a couple of RP's to the small ledge and a bolted belay at 65'.
P-2 Step up to clip bolt above the roof, and crank up and right, then back left to a good stance below the funky corner features (5.10+). Climb this section past gear and 4 more bolts (cryptic 5.11), through a couple of bulges to a good short crack near the top (Bomber # 2 camelot here). Step up and right (past another good #2 or #3 camelot) and to a short easy slab. Rap from a 2 bolt anchor with either 2 ropes (130'), or one rope twice using the P-1 bolts of "SP".
Climbs the funky looking wall out right of pitch 2 of "Mourning Maiden".
Standard rack. Small to medium cams for the belay.
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Feb 28, 2008
When did this route (and Solar Plexus) go up? I've looked at that wall for a long time but always thought the rock was crap. Much rock of that color on TR that is bad, in my experience. Awesome that you had the nerve to get up there and find out that it's good. Good on you!
By Rob Dillon
Feb 28, 2008
Yeah, what Coz said. Sooner or later I'll get back there and enjoy the work y'all did getting those in.
From: western NC
Jul 4, 2013
Thanks guys! This is my personal favorite route at Table Rock.