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Indecent Exposure Buttress
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Indecent Exposure 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 3,153
Submitted By: susan peplow on Oct 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Russ after the improbable traverse on the second p...
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  • Description 

    P1 - Start on stack of boulders and climb up 20 feet to first bolt. Climbing up and left of the arete using good features and slinging hueco's for protection before climbing past 2nd bolt and a small playing card size brass plaque. After the memorial plaque traverse right 15' to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

    P2 - Looking to the right from the ledge it looks as if the arete feature drops into no-mans-land and improbable path. But yes, this is correct. Move up and right from belay to a crack which can be protected using 3" camalot then drop your hands down and move over to a large flake that is towards the front of the buttress. Just above this flake/pillar is a bolt with well featured and amazing climbing ahead to the summit. The guidebook states something about a thin crack, which I don't recall seeing.

    No rap stations so you'll be walking down.


    Location 

    30' right of the Tree route on the left shoulder on Indecent Exposure buttress. Look for large stack of blocks at the start and a bolt out right. Anchor your belayer as a fall getting to the first bolt will probably finish you both off. A large nut should do it.


    Protection 

    2 draws, 2-4 long slings and a medium size cam. P1 has bolted anchors atop a ledge, summit anchor is make/sling your own.



    Photos of Indecent Exposure Slideshow Add Photo
    Somewhere in the 80 ft zone between the 1st & 2nd bolts.  Photo by Russ Walling
    Somewhere in the 80 ft zone between the 1st & 2nd ...
    looking back at the P1 belay from atop the huge flake.
    looking back at the P1 belay from atop the huge fl...
    Memorial plaque on the first pitch
    Memorial plaque on the first pitch
    Moments after the airy traverse on the second pitch. We setup an intermediate belay shortly after the traverse to allow for better communication and less rope out in the system. October 2013.
    Moments after the airy traverse on the second pitc...
    Russ, bolt clipped, ready to pull up the cool moves to the summit.
    Russ, bolt clipped, ready to pull up the cool move...
    a view from window pain
    a view from window pain
    Comments on Indecent Exposure Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By susan peplow
    From: Joshua Tree
    Oct 17, 2007

    Great exposure and fun climbing. Don't get sucked over towards the arete on the first pitch during it's 100+ run out. The second bolt is located high (like way high) and left of the arete by at least 15-20 feet.

    Coming off of the belay you'll see 3 shiny and newer looking bolts that head up and left. Although enticing, I believe those lead to the headwall .11X variation.

    ~Susan

    By Russ Walling
    From: www.FishProducts.com
    Oct 17, 2007
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    Cool-Ass-Hell! Go do it... just make sure your second doesn't whip on the traverse or you just might never see her again..... Communication with the leader on the summit will be minimal to non-existant. If you pop, you might be hanging there for a while. Make a plan before you go for the second pitch.

    By Jason Halladay
    Administrator
    From: Los Alamos, NM
    Oct 28, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Some notes from my climb of this route this past weekend:

    • This route is bitchin'
    • There are three bolts on P1. The first one is about 8 to 10 feet up. Then another one ten feet higher. Then one going to the anchor near the end of the pitch.
    • I didn't bring enough slings/draws on the first pitch and I had five slings and four quickdraws. I found two great hueco slinging opportunities which each used a single-length sling and a quick draw.
    • I appreciated a set of nuts for both pitches, especially the second pitch, and especially smaller nuts. RPs would be best.
    • The #3 camalot is useful on P1 and mandatory to protect the airy traverse on P2.
    • There are two modern bolts and one old quarter-inch bolt on P2. The quarter inch bolt is way up high and not necessary. On P2, I setup a decently comfortable intermediate belay at the second modern bolt using the bolt and two smaller nuts near the bolt so that I could communicate with and see my second as she made the airy traverse. This also meant less rope out in the system in case the second does fall. This worked out great.

    By Chad_N
    From: SEKI, CA
    Dec 19, 2013

    The traverse is airy, weird and fun! Small & med nuts do work well on both pitches. I think a #4 cam would protect well in amongst the slinged huecos on P1. I set up that same belay Jason talks about above with the 2nd bolt and nuts on P2. Works great for communication, especially if the wind is blowing, otherwise forget about it. Get your rope tugs down before-hand. Take lots of slings. Watch for loose rock. Have Fun!