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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A right facing enduro corner with a roof at the end which is just sandy enough to make you over-grip and pump out. There is a good reason to go for it at the roof...
Between MC's Hammer and Nurse Ratchet at the Cliffs of Insanity.
A lot of red camalots, a few green camalots, and a couple smaller pieces.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2011
I have no clue how this route isn't considered a classic. There is a little bit of poor rock at the very beginning then it's tight #1 camalot / baggy .75 camalot the whole way up to the roof. #1 at the roof and a .75 past it get you to the chains. Awesome climbing. Very similar to Quarter of a Man, both in size and that there is relief on edges outside the crack. Get on it! Sick line.
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
It's a fun route with a crisp crack and a great finish, but in comparison to many other routes at this cliff, its sandy nature precludes it from classic status. A slightly harder version of Layaway Plan, black Metolious cams would be the gear of choice here, I think, though the tight red Camolots were OK, with a wide .75 placement here and there.