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Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent 
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Crack of Doom 
Easiest Route 
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Morning Glory 
Power Tools 
Reach for the Sky 
Strategic Defense 
Veal Cage 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,541
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 30, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: the incisor on the left.


If this had a better name, it would get more traffic! This is a fun, well protected pitch between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom. Good crack climbing, stemming, and some body english will see you through two chimneys and a memorable roof. Good clean fun. If you've come to climb Skyline and it is busy - jump on this worthy alternative.


Between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom - look for the obvious chimney.


Cams from fingers to #3 Camalot and wires. Bolts + chains on top (shared with Strategic Defense)

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By krbuckingham
Nov 30, 2011

I recall there being an alternative to working the roof - tunneling up a true chimney. Rather than go out to the roof, cut in and right and there's a squeeze that's barely wider than your hips (front to back). If you have some badunkadunk or extra gear, this will probably be not much fun. For me, it is what made this climb memorable. Complete enclosed-ness except for straight up.