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BETA PHOTO: the incisor on the left.
If this had a better name, it would get more traffic! This is a fun, well protected pitch between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom. Good crack climbing, stemming, and some body english will see you through two chimneys and a memorable roof. Good clean fun. If you've come to climb Skyline and it is busy - jump on this worthy alternative.
Between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom - look for the obvious chimney.
Cams from fingers to #3 Camalot and wires. Bolts + chains on top (shared with Strategic Defense)
Nov 30, 2011
I recall there being an alternative to working the roof - tunneling up a true chimney. Rather than go out to the roof, cut in and right and there's a squeeze that's barely wider than your hips (front to back). If you have some badunkadunk or extra gear, this will probably be not much fun. For me, it is what made this climb memorable. Complete enclosed-ness except for straight up.
By Mike Marmar
Oct 6, 2014
The climbing itself is not bad, but the chimney is full of rat shit, bird shit, and animal carcasses. On my way up I passed a dead rat, dead bird, bird's nest, and heaping piles of feces. The rock is covered in dried animal urine in places as well.
If you take the roof, you will get your rope stuck in the roof crack unless you managed to climb the last 25ft of the chimney without placing any pro. I ended up keeping it out of the crack by placing an upside-down cam right at the lip of the roof.