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Morning Glory Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Chimney T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 

Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,199
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: the chimney on the left.

Description 

If this had a better name, it would get more traffic! This is a fun, well protected pitch between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom. Good crack climbing, stemming, and some body english will see you through two chimneys and a memorable roof. Good clean fun. If you've come to climb Skyline and it is busy - jump on this worthy alternative.

Location 

Between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom - look for the obvious chimney.

Protection 

Cams from fingers to #3 Camalot and wires. Bolts + chains on top (shared with Strategic Defense)


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By krbuckingham
Nov 30, 2011

I recall there being an alternative to working the roof - tunneling up a true chimney. Rather than go out to the roof, cut in and right and there's a squeeze that's barely wider than your hips (front to back). If you have some badunkadunk or extra gear, this will probably be not much fun. For me, it is what made this climb memorable. Complete enclosed-ness except for straight up.
By Mike Marmar
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 6, 2014

The climbing itself is not bad, but the chimney is full of rat shit, bird shit, and animal carcasses. On my way up I passed a dead rat, dead bird, bird's nest, and heaping piles of feces. The rock is covered in dried animal urine in places as well.

If you take the roof, you will get your rope stuck in the roof crack unless you managed to climb the last 25ft of the chimney without placing any pro. I ended up keeping it out of the crack by placing an upside-down cam right at the lip of the roof.
By dave bingham
Jan 20, 2015

I've never heard of this chimney being called "Incisor".
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Apr 9, 2016

No animal carcasses, some feces (but avoidable) and really interesting, excellent climbing. I really enjoyed pulling the roof at the end. I thought a triple length sling fully extended would get me up without rope issues moving from the final chimney through the roof, but the rope still pushed in my cam at the lip of the roof. Best to either not protect the last chimney or use enough slings to make a straight fall line.

I really enjoyed this unique route, though some may be turned off by the evidence of animals therein.

This is in Dave Bingham's guidebook under Chimney. I don't think Incisor is the correct name.

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