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Super Crack Tower
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Inception 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FADean Hoffman/Dustin Wildermuth FFA A. Jones/D. Bloom
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring/Fall/Winter
Page Views: 2,389
Submitted By: Dean Hoffman on Oct 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The Crux Pitch

Description 

P1: 5.9 Hands to fists up corner

P2: 5.11/12 One of the best pitches I've been on in Sedona, Amazing. Splitter! First half probably 5.10 to overhanging fingers through two bolts to anchors on ledge, 5.11/12? Need some input on the grade! Spectacular! Feels like Annunkai at Indian Creek but steeper! (and unfortunately shorter) Possible to rap from here. (Very very cool 98% free hanging rap) These two pitches are definitely worth the hike!

P3: 5.11+/12- FFA Jones/Bloom Off balance, moderate face climbing into sandy crack system, place a bomber piece or two (.5/.4 camalot) beneath the bulgy block, some hollow sounding/looking rock just below the good jams. Clip a bolt and mantle the dirt clod! Don't be surprised if you feel like a monkey F-ing a football. Press it out and clip one more bolt and head up short crack to the roof. Build yerself a nice lil nest of bomber gear at the roof and get yer head on straight. Desperate laybacking past the roof will take you to the next anchors. Possible to place gear in this section, but strenuous. Congrats to Abel for getting the FFA on this pitch.

P4: 5.7 Very short bear crawl traverse to anchor, feels short but it will make sense on the next pitch and the rap

P5: 5.9 R Hold onto your sack, take one draw, one #4 BD with a long sling, one #3BD. Leave your helmet and anything else you don't need and head into the abyss. I believe this is also the last pitch of the NW face route. Expect a 50-60ft unprotected chimney! you can place the #4 at the base of the chimney but there is no gear til you top out! On this lower summit drop the number three into an obvious slot to protect the second and clip the anchor down by the lip, you will be directly above your partner at this point. (It is possible to summit the upper tower by climbing the 5.9r face as noted in the NW route description)
-pitches are relatively short, but linking not recommended everything is really right where it needs to be-

Location 

West face of Supercrack Tower. Rack up at base of "Hotdog in a Hallway" and walk across ledge system to anchors. Rap first two pitches with 2 70's, 2 60's look very very doable but is untested! or continue up for 3 more pitches of pure mindbending excitement. From the top rap one single rope and second rap is double rope back to packs (this is can be done with 2 60m rope but can definitely not be done with one 70)

Protection 

Doubles through 3.5BD
One #4
Multiples in the blue/yellow metolius TCU

Offset nuts and Aliens very nice to have for C2 pitch


Photos of Inception Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2 Splitter!
Pitch 2 Splitter!
More splitter action!!!
More splitter action!!!
This is where the huge block was, came off with very little assistance from 1ft crowbar.  Might be able to free climb past these two bolts now and up and out the roof.  However be aware that the Huge block below the bolts is somewhat suspect.
This is where the huge block was, came off with ve...
Just an idea of how steep the fingers pitch is
Just an idea of how steep the fingers pitch is
Pitch 3 roof, C2
Pitch 3 roof, C2
Looking straight up into the chimney <br />
Looking straight up into the chimney
The Tower
The Tower
Splitter <br />
Splitter
Bear crawl traverse
Bear crawl traverse
Inception
Inception
Allen Riling and Dean Hoffman Sending!
Allen Riling and Dean Hoffman Sending!

Comments on Inception Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 25, 2014
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 25, 2010

Looks good Dean!
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 17, 2010

Way to go Dean and Dustin! I was always curious about that line, I was surprised Mark never go on it. Super Crack Tower is certainly living up to it's name!

Is the burn area starting to grow back yet?
By Dean Hoffman
Nov 17, 2010

Hey Kole, some of the burn has started to grow back. However I have a suspicion that the tornadoes that hit Belmont may have spawned some winds up the wash. There are some huge cedars that have been snapped like twigs and some newly down dead (ex)standing pinions. Pretty spectacular. PS for the record I feel a little odd giving this thing 4 stars, seeing that Dustin and I put it up, but either way you climb, two pitches or five, I think it is an amazingly fun and aesthetic climb, in a truly beautiful location. I truly hope folks get on this and enjoy it as much as I did.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 23, 2010

Having TR'd this route twice before it went up, I would give the lower part 3+ stars. Now that it has been properly cleaned & fitted & such, it probably does deserve 4 stars. I was going to just end it atop the steep splitter, but kudos to Dean & Dustin for having the drive to push it to the top. I thought it was 11+ or 12-, but suck at ratings so who knows.

I can't wait to get back on this!
By Allen Riling
From: Durango
Jan 29, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I just went and Climbed the first two pitches with Dean a few days ago. Man, what a cool pitch. probably one of the funnest tower pitches I have done. I'll say 11+ seems accurate.
By Dean Hoffman
Feb 13, 2011

Awesome climbing this with Allen, fired it for the onsight, impressive indeed. Can't wait to send the 3rd pitch!
By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R

Hey Dean, thanks for showing this to me and giving your blessing.

Pitch 3 went free Jan 26th. Bloom onsighted pitch 2 and I onsighted the now clean enough aid pitch. I wouldn't say its super clean and open for business but if you choose your holds wisely you can eek through at 11+. Bloom cleaned a bit more on the follow. Overall the route is amazing and I can tell that aiding pitch 3 would have been scary enough to keep me up at night. The props go to Dustin and Dean for pushing that chunk off and popping in 2 bolts. After some more sends it will add to the classic nature of the tower. Both cruxes on P3 are extremely well protected... the 5.9 P5 finish on the other hand was wild to the top.
By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R

If you top out you can get down with one 70m by rapping the north side into the window, going through the window onto the south side and soloing or pitching it out left on some 5.3 past a bolt to the slab that takes you right to the packs.
By Dustin Wildermuth
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 29, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Nice work on the FFA Abel and Bloom! Way Phyched for you guys. How was the gear after the roof? On aid I placed off set aliens and it was my main concern regarding a FA. Side note for any aid monkeys out there. The line will go at (5.9R C2).
By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 4, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R

Well, after the gear nest at the roof I ran it all the way to the finish mantel. It wasn't till that point that I got scared and visualized failing spectacularly on the final v0 move so I sketchily placed an akward #4 below my knees and almost popped while clipping. It seems this #4 or a #2 or 3 could be placed in better style on the way up, although they are a bit flaired. Fun and safe overall!
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 7, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Right after the gear nest beneath the roof... about 2-3 feet above the roof, there is a bomber #2 camalot placement... this makes the rest slightly runout but safe... you can also reach up and get either a nut or a small hands piece in a pod before the finish mantle, which makes this pitch not R-rated
By Ryan Z
Apr 25, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

Rated R for the last pitch. P2 is really nice fingers, followed by a nice face bit. P3 is hard and desperate. I had to pull through a move getting established at the lip of the roof. You may want nuts for this pitch and a #4 is nice, but the fight is over by the time you can place it. P5 is a great squeeze/normal chimney to some spicy face climbing!

In case anyone was wondering, you can rappel from the top of pitch 2 with (1) 60m rope, in 2 rappels.