This large, west facing formation lies in the southern end of Secret Valley; a north-south canyon lying northeast of Disneyland Dome and Southeast of Diarrhea Dome/Bighorn Matting Grotto. Other formations in Secret Valley include Elephant Arches and Hard Rock, both of which lie north of Inuaguron Dome.
Ingauguron Dome has several excellent face and crack routes; several 2 pitches in length. Routes are found on the larger left-hand (northern) end and the recessed and higher right-hand (southern) end. The best routes include: The Inauguron (11b, 2 pitches); Morality Test (11b, 2 pitches); Yardy-Hoo And Away (10a, 2 pitches) and White Bread Fever (11c, 2 pitches). Bring a full range of gear; the face routes are trad bolted and may require other gear.
The most straightforward approach is to walk out the Wonderland Valley from Uncle Willey's, continuing north past the Freak Brothers, Disneyland and Duckwaddle Domes. At a point approximately 400 yards north of Duckwaddle Dome, you should turn right (east) into a valley/wash [this is before the wash you turn into to reach Diarrhea Dome/Bighorn Mating Grotto]. Head east for about 350 yards (passing Gumby Dome). The terrain becomes more jumbled near the end; boulder hop over and down into Secret Valley. Elephant Arches will be to the left (north) and Inauguron Dome to the right (south).
This excellent climb goes up the right side of the Inauguron Dome. It starts out with some tricky moves on a slab up and left, and then goes up steeper rock past bolts, and angles right across the face to the bottom of a crack system. There is a 2 bolt belay station below the crack. Climb the crack to the top (5.8). This is the only climb on the Inauguron Dome which isn't R rated....[more]Browse More Classics in CA