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In Your Dreams 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Marcella and John Baldwin
Page Views: 2,455
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 8, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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At the moves leading to the crux. Or is this the c...

Description 

This was at one time the leftmost route on Oceanic Wall, but there is now at least one other route further left. In the Rossiter guide it says, "To be bolted", so apparently at the time the guidebook was written this climb had not been bolted or lead.

Start left of The Deep below a shallow, A-shaped ceiling. The first bolt is maybe 15 feet up, but getting there is relatively easy with positive holds. Climb through the apex of the roof, move a bit left through a bulge and up to a short crack. The moves up the crack, using holds either left or right of the crack (or both) are hard and lead to a small stance at the crux. The next clip (if you're not really tall) is either difficult off of treacherous footholds, or you have to do the crux a few feet about the previous bolt and then make an easy clip. The crux moves involve some thin feet smears off of laybacks. Undercling up and right and make a long reach to a jug which is the left end of the ledge that angles up and left from The Deep. Join The Deep for the fun upper wall. The upper face is a bit runout but very secure due to big knobs where you need them.


Protection 

Approximately 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring a few extra draws, since I didn't count the bolts.



Photos of In Your Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
Jen Ernst following In Your Dreams.  Photo taken by  <br />Dominik Kulakowski.
Jen Ernst following In Your Dreams. Photo taken b...
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By crankenstein
Jun 28, 2009

This is a fun climb. Some good finger tip lay back moves with tenuous smearing. There is an anchor now after the 7th? bolt.

By Josh M.
From: Golden, CO
Jul 1, 2009

On the Oceanic Wall page, this route is listed "gear or TR," but here I see "Sport" and a recommendation for 10-12 QDs. Are there hangers/an anchor? Thanks!

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 3, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Ugh. WAY too much info in the descript. Just follow the wandering bolts up left then off to the right and have a blast. And yes, this has been well bolted for at least a couple of years now.

A few, tense-y, strenuous 5.10 moves up near the top, especially if'n you're out of sequence...but easy enough to pull through.

By J Baldwin
Apr 20, 2010

In Your Dreams (July 20, 2001)- bolted (7 bolts), cleaned, and led by Marcella and John Baldwin.

By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Nice, little route.

By dcohn
May 22, 2011

Surprisingly fun route. It is hard to see the good stuff from the bottom. A #0.5 or 0.75 Camalot can be used in the steep section but is not necessary. The guidebook gave it 11a, but 10d is probably more accurate.