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 ADVANCED
Lower West Bolton
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Minor T 
A-Sharp T,TR 
Chimney T 
Hailstorm T 
Harvest Moon T,TR 
Hush, Mama Thrush T 
In the Pines T 
Slip, The T 
Steel Feathers T,S 
Sticks and Stones T 
Tea in the Sahara T,S 
Wavey Good-Bye T 
What's up, doc? T 
Unsorted Routes:

In the Pines 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 849
Submitted By: roddack on Apr 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the easy off width to ledge (often wet), step left for a single pitch of more off width or belay. Step further left to a giant flake. Climb the right side to a left facing dihedral with ok gear (5.7),or at base of dihedral break left for a bolt (5.7)and the top.

Location 

Far left side of Harvest moon wall.

Protection 

Normal


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By DWABS
Dec 30, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

I believe the first part of this climb is called "Wet Corner". You can lead this first short pitch to a tree belay or two bolts on the big ledge and then continue up in the two ways described, or you can climb it as one pitch, or just end it there.

I found the right variation, going up the crack with the tree growing out of it to a low angled corner much better protected than the left. Though the only real climbing on the right variation is found within the first 15 or so feet, then it's a mellow scramble with one last easy move to the bolts. The left variation has two bolts for intermediate pro up to and on a bulge.

Left variation is run out to two bolts, right variation ends at two bolts w/rap rings.
By Mark Daubenschmidt
From: South Burlington
Aug 21, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Left variation is fairly run out, unless you have a #4 or 5 C4 :). Tried a direct finish but couldn't find any pro, traversed back to the left for the bolts and finish. Has anyone done this direct??
By mikeinvt
May 24, 2012

There are two "left variations". They both start on the large flake and I wouldn't call either run out. Climb either the right or left side of the flake (#3 camalot) then either break left for the two bolts and end at a two bolt anchor, or (better) climb straight up the slab and angle left into the dihedral. Gear is kind of fiddly but is all there. You can also climb a slab pitch to the left of the wet corner that ends on the ledge at the flake, this makes a better first pitch IMO.