In the Light 5.10
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | B. Maslyar, 2002 |
| Season: | Early A.M. shade |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Nov 28, 2006 |
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R. Henshaw sticking the pockets and pulls on "In t...
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Description This is the right-most of the 3 "triplet" routes on the short wall just left of the main approach to Military. The route was bolted much later than the first two on this wall but perhaps should have gone in sooner, as it is it is a good addition to the cliff. This climb is slightly longer and slightly harder tan the other two routes nearby, and is a logical line that mitigates the crowd waiting on the other two warm-up lines. I may also be a better project for the moderate sport leader.
Location From the main approach Trail go left to a short area of the wall, steep and pocketed. There are presently 3 sport routes there. From right to left these are: Into the Light (10c), Sunshine (9+) and Moonbeam (9).
Protection 4 bolts to a bolt and chain anchor
Great spot to take a picture of this amazing fun a...
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By 426
Apr 2, 2007
| Crux could be clipping the anchor...seen a few good whips right there... |
By George Heib
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.10c
| Talk about a heady anchor clip. Had to down climb to regain my composure before committing to the anchor. Was a blast to finish this I recommend pushing to the left side of the anchor there is a nice ledge to clip from, but I was a bit too scared and clipped from a right hand golf ball sized hold. |
By charris
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| I think the crux is finding the holds you need to get to the jugs at the anchors. The moves were easy once I found all the holds, but I had to fall a few times while searching. |
By S. Neoh
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c
| The anchors have long chains with quick-clips attached. There is a great hold to the right and below the anchors to clip one of the quick clips from. There is also a decent left hand hold up higher, directly below the anchors.
Great route. Lots of fun side pulls and underclings on this one. |
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