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Military Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Things Considered S 
Another Doug Reed Route S 
Beene Material T 
BeeneStalker (closed) T 
Blade Runner (closed) T 
Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner (BBBB) S 
Danita Dolores S 
Decay's Way T 
Forearm Follies S 
Fuzzy Undercling S 
G.I. T 
Government Cheese S 
Gung Ho S 
In the Light S 
Jac Mac (closed) S 
Jungle Beat T 
Left Turret S 
Legend, The S 
Mercy Miss Percy S 
Minimum Creep S 
Moonbeam S 
Mule S 
Nagypapa S 
Nicorette S 
Nothing for Now S 
Parting Gift S 
Pink Feat Boulder Problem 
Possum Lips S 
Reliquary, The S 
Stay Left S 
Subatomic Fingerlock (closed) T 
Sunshine S 
Super Slab S 
Things That Go Bump In the Night T 
Thirsting Skull (closed) S 
Tissue Tiger S 
Unsorted Routes:

In the Light 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B. Maslyar, 2002
Season: Early A.M. shade
Page Views: 1,384
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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R. Henshaw sticking the pockets and pulls on "...

Description 

This is the right-most of the 3 "triplet" routes on the short wall just left of the main approach to Military. The route was bolted much later than the first two on this wall but perhaps should have gone in sooner, as it is it is a good addition to the cliff. This climb is slightly longer and slightly harder tan the other two routes nearby, and is a logical line that mitigates the crowd waiting on the other two warm-up lines. I may also be a better project for the moderate sport leader.

Location 

From the main approach Trail go left to a short area of the wall, steep and pocketed. There are presently 3 sport routes there. From right to left these are: Into the Light (10c), Sunshine (9+) and Moonbeam (9).

Protection 

4 bolts to a bolt and chain anchor


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By 426
Apr 2, 2007

Crux could be clipping the anchor...seen a few good whips right there...
By George Heib
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Talk about a heady anchor clip. Had to down climb to regain my composure before committing to the anchor. Was a blast to finish this I recommend pushing to the left side of the anchor there is a nice ledge to clip from, but I was a bit too scared and clipped from a right hand golf ball sized hold.
By charris
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I think the crux is finding the holds you need to get to the jugs at the anchors. The moves were easy once I found all the holds, but I had to fall a few times while searching.
By S. Neoh
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The anchors have long chains with quick-clips attached. There is a great hold to the right and below the anchors to clip one of the quick clips from. There is also a decent left hand hold up higher, directly below the anchors.
Great route. Lots of fun side pulls and underclings on this one.
By Dreez
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I normally have no problems w 5.10 but this baby shut me down and spit me out. 5 hours later my arms are still pulsing. hardest 10a i have ever not done.
By S. Neoh
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

If memory serves, the good holds on this route are a little hard to find with lots of side pulls and underclings. A combination of tech and pump. Good endurance would serve you well here. Significantly harder than .10a, I feel .10c is a fair grade. Not that much easier than Fuzzy. Great route, but not so good as first warmup of the day.