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 ADVANCED
Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cheval T,TR 
B-minor Mass T,TR 
Disinclination T,TR 
Flotsam and Jetsam T,TR 
Great Mass in C Minor T,TR 
Green Ledges T 
In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 
LadyFingers T,TR 
Manhandler T 
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 
No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 
Obduracy T,TR 
Pigeon Roof T,TR 
Power of a Good Haircut TR 
Rainman T,TR 
Saturday Forever T,TR 

In the Heat of the Sun 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Lower pitch of B-Minor Mass (12), South Tower Corn...

Description 

In the Heat of the Sun is located on the east face of the South Tower. Climb up the center of the face on small features to the top of the tower.


Protection 

Standard Rack



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By Alex A
Apr 13, 2010

A fun climb

FA Peter Cleveland

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 11, 2012

Standard rack???? Didn't look like much gear to me ....

I ended up grabbing each edge of the face once.

By Tradoholic
Aug 12, 2012

Ha, TAB's initial contributions to climbdevilslake.com were pretty vague. I remember thinking this was contrived to climb just the face and no gear either.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 12, 2012

There is one really nice balance move at the crux on this climb. Loved it! Great climbing. You could lead this with the smallest RP's I am thinking. Ha! Knifeblades? Knifeblades would work great on this climb.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 12, 2012

Not that contrived, actually. Except for my self-imposed confusion about whether or not to use the edges of the face, it flowed pretty well. A good climber could probably do it straight up, too.