A nice route with thoughtful moves over steep but small roofs. Amazing this wasn't claimed before 2012.
Climb the dihedral to the right of Zoe all the way up. It's quite easy for 25 feet until you hit the first roof. There's no bolts before this point, so you need a small rack (up to 1" pieces) to get here.
Clip the first bolt and surmount the first roof with good stemming for your feet. Cruise to the next roof, clip bolt, and crank over it (crux). Relatively easier climbing from there to the top chains.
small rack to 1". 3 bolts. rappel chains.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I was glad to have a rack to #2 camalot, and a second #1 would have been even nicer. Not sure why the book neglects to mention this- its obvious from the base.
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 22, 2013
The Squamish select book calls in a 5.10a, but who knows? It feels a little harder than Zoe.
There's at least one place to put a #3 camalot, and depending on how much gear you want to place, it's a smart move to double up on everything from blue to red in the Metolius mastercams.
Fun route! My first 10a (or b?) trad onsite.