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In search of "really good" physical therapist

Original Post
likeaturtle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

I'm trying to find a PT who is also a climber and very experienced with the demands that hard climbing requires of our bodies. Preferably they have had clients that are high level climbers. I might be persuaded to travel up to a days drive to see PT, but I'm trying to find one in Colorado first.

I've had a few injuries and tweaks, luckily nothing major. Like most climbers I have soreness and inflammation come up every now and then. I really want to step up my level and I'm seeking a professional to help me lessen the risks of injury as much as possible.

I'm not currently injured. What I have in mind is a session where the PT (or perhaps a multi-disciplined professional?) does a thorough assessment of my mobility, flexibility, strength, soft tissue health, alignment, imbalances etc. etc. Also a Q&A about past injuries and future climbing goals. Depending on what is uncovered during this exam, I want to come away with a custom program of stretches, exercises, and other activities to keep myself in good shape.

I listened to the trainingbeta.com podcast with Dr. Lisa Erikson and considered contacting her organization. I'm trying to see if people have other recommendations or personal experiences that they'd like to share with me.

Thanks for your help and happy, healthy climbing.

Flex · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,025

While it's nowhere near where you are, I had an awesome PT experience with Rob Miller at the Body Shop clinic here in Flagstaff. Rob wrote the guidebook to one of the local sport crags and has climbed 5.14a & V10. He's focused more on the clinic now but still climbs strong. He definitely believes in wholistic healing/training and incorporates massage, nutrition & whole-body workouts while treating an injury. You can look up their website, perhaps he could steer you toward a similar minded colleague in your area?

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Interested in this as well. Currently negotiating a bulging a disc causing significant reduction in range of motion and sciatica-like pain almost every day. Been to 2 chiropractors and 1 PT here in Boulder, each for multiple sessions, with no real relief.

Dean Allison · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

If you are looking for physical therapy for any sort of climbing injuries to upper body extremities, consider checking out Brenda Cummings, owner and hand therapist at Harmony Hand and PT in Fort Collins. She has treated a lot of climbers. Just ask for Brenda when you call. For example, see blog.bethrodden.com/2012/02… for Beth Rodden's description of her good experiences with Brenda treating Beth's climbing injuries, as well as those of Tommy Caldwell's. Tommy has gone on the record declaring Brenda his "miracle worker". Brenda also does wonders treating mere mortals like the rest of us.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392

Jeff Giddings in Fort Collins, and an MP member, has done great things for me and several of my friends. As Don says, "He's got voodoo magic."

agphysicaltherapy.com/about…

Chandler Van Schaack · · Pine, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 750

I highly recommend Laura Schmonsees at BodyWise PT in Boulder. She is a climber and an awesome PT. I worked with her after having Labrum surgery in December and was back easy climbing again in 4 months, with full climbing activity in 6 months (this was way ahead of the schedule my surgeon gave me).

http://bodywisept.com/

After I was recovered enough for full climbing activity/ training again I worked with Brent Apgar at the Boulder Rock Club to proactively manage imbalances/ tweaks and stay healthy as I increased the training. He is also the man and a wizard with the trigger point dry-needling. He is also incredibly knowledgeable about training, nutrition, etc. Give him a call. He will help you.

TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65
pro-active-chiro.com

Dr. Steve is simply the best. It's not cheap, it's not fun, but it's sure as hell effective. He doesn't climb (anymore) but he works on a lot of reputable climbers including being the one who rebuilt Renan Ozturk prior to his ascent of the Shark's Fin. He works on Carlo Traversi, Matt Segal, and a few others. Can't recommend him enough and he's conveniently located in Boulder.
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175
likeaturtle wrote:I'm trying to find a PT who is also a climber and very experienced with the demands that hard climbing requires of our bodies. Preferably they have had clients that are high level climbers. I might be persuaded to travel up to a days drive to see PT, but I'm trying to find one in Colorado first. I've had a few injuries and tweaks, luckily nothing major. Like most climbers I have soreness and inflammation come up every now and then. I really want to step up my level and I'm seeking a professional to help me lessen the risks of injury as much as possible. I'm not currently injured. What I have in mind is a session where the PT (or perhaps a multi-disciplined professional?) does a thorough assessment of my mobility, flexibility, strength, soft tissue health, alignment, imbalances etc. etc. Also a Q&A about past injuries and future climbing goals. Depending on what is uncovered during this exam, I want to come away with a custom program of stretches, exercises, and other activities to keep myself in good shape. I listened to the trainingbeta.com podcast with Dr. Lisa Erikson and considered contacting her organization. I'm trying to see if people have other recommendations or personal experiences that they'd like to share with me. Thanks for your help and happy, healthy climbing.
Climbing friend,

I would like to "work for" a lot of money, so I could do seeing of a "really good" physical therapist, possibly "in Boulder."
likeaturtle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Thank you all for the recommendations!

ChanVan wrote:...After I was recovered enough for full climbing activity/ training again I worked with Brent Apgar at the Boulder Rock Club to proactively manage imbalances/ tweaks and stay healthy as I increased the training. He is also the man and a wizard with the trigger point dry-needling. He is also incredibly knowledgeable about training, nutrition, etc. Give him a call. He will help you.
I've followed some of Brent's replies on here and he was someone I had in mind. Seems like he's helped out many folks tremendously.

Climbing friend Aleks,
You have my sincere sympathy, as lying in mountain stream, no longer cold thanks to global warming, isn't good enough to enable bold glorious flash of difficult route. Eating fish heads and lifting potato sacks doesn't seem to cut it any more. Nowadays one can't help but feel inadequate unless they seek out the latest technology for video analysis, CAD modeled fingerboards, and high-dollar PT's based in Boulder...
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Climbing friend turtle,

You may enjoy a globally warmed mountain stream to loosen your inadequate muscles and tendons, myah? And do not be afraid to shun modern expensive fancery sold by those with fancy pants, and instead go old school back to basics. You must simply become more hardcore, myah?

Your bold glory flash must come mostly from within your own mind, as well as your experience and bold training. I am not great expert in shoulder physiotherapy and other matters, but I recommend you simply toughen yourself up, do not pay excessive moneys for fanciness, and continue bench pressing your boulders, executing your 4-plan, and trying 5 to 10 times harder than you think you should or than anyone else is. Myah?

If your shoulders hurt, perhaps you improve your posture and use some smaller boulders for external rotations while lying face down on your stomach with arm held straight out to side and bent 90 degrees, so you simulating position of arm while climbing, myah?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

As usual, Aleks is right. You need an old-fashioned training regimen, not some high-falutin' PT. It worked for Rocky against Ivan Drago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-8hOKNbtxg

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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